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Unread 01-16-2010, 12:04 PM   #1
HDmstng
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HD's newlywed bathroom remodel

Hi All!

Here's the question first, followed by the back story. I'm tiling a small bathroom floor, about 5.5' x 5' with the intention of really remodeling (expanding into the adjacent closet for added room, etc...) the bathroom in about 5 years. For my last bathroom remodel, I used 1/4 hardiboard that was thinset and screwed into the subfloor.

See the final results here. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...t=63862&page=4

I realized if I ever wanted to take that floor up again, it would be a major pain. With that in mind, would Ditra be the better choice here?

Oh and the original builder used 3/8" plywood and 3/4" particle board (not OSB) as the floor tile backer). Talk about easy to take back up!

Thanks,
HD

And the long back story below...

Got married back in July and moved into the wife's house. It's a mid 70's cape cod style and is in need of a little TLC. While shopping for exterior doors, flooring, and potential kitchen remodel at Lowe's with my wife and mother in law, they found a pedestal vanity & sink on sale! It was a great deal, over 50% off and perfect for the upstairs bathroom. Not that we had any plans soon to remodel the upstairs bathroom...

...if I was lucky, they tiled under the old vanity and would just have to remove the original vanity and plumb in the new one. Unfortunately no such luck with the tile, so time to rip up the old floor and tile. Got to love this, 3/4" particle board (not OSB) over 3/8" plywood. Darn easy to come up.
Unfortunately there was water damage, so up came parts of the subfloor.

After nicking the hot water line with the reciprocating saw, no leak, but repaired the section of pipe, I'm ready to repair the subfloor and prepare the tile backer...with the idea in mind of remodeling down the line and having to take up the new tile backer, what options would be easiest to remove later?

Ditra rather than hardi board that is thinset and screwed down a brazillian times? Any other suggestions?

HD
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Unread 01-16-2010, 12:19 PM   #2
Deckert
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For whatever you use, cement backer or Ditra, that particle boards needs to come completely out. Also, 3/8" plywood is too thin for a subfloor in a tile assembly. It either needs to be removed and replaced, or gone over with another layer of thicker plywood. Considering you said there was water damage, I would remove it and replace it.

As far as whats easiest to remove, hrmm. Not really the standard way of thinking about building a tile floor, but I see what you are getting at. I guess I'd rather remove Ditra than cement board.

Is there no way to do the bathroom portion of your remodel with the aim of keeping it intact long term, than just making a transition into the rest of your remodel?
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Last edited by Deckert; 01-16-2010 at 12:25 PM.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 12:22 PM   #3
HDmstng
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The particle board is already out! What surprised me the most was the 3/8" plywood sub floor. After the particle board was up, I was afraid I'd fall through it was flexing so much. I thought the plywood was dry rotted so I decided to take it up, that's when I found out it was only 3/8"
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Unread 01-16-2010, 02:33 PM   #4
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Well....If you're planning on taking it out in the future, particle board will work GREAT!

I'd probably go with cement board, but that's all I know. Don't know what ditra would come up like. Use a rotary hammer(or a regular hammer) on the tile and it should come out alright.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 03:22 PM   #5
HDmstng
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My subfloor is down, and I'm ready to put down the ditra and tile. I still need to cut the 3" dia. PVC pipe that the toilet flange goes on. The tile is 1/4 (maybe 5/16), the ditra is 1/8 plus thin set. I'm using an over the pipe flange.

Question is; how much of the PVC do I cut off? Is there a general rule of thumb I should follow?

Thanks in advance,
HD
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Unread 01-18-2010, 05:08 PM   #6
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Rule of thumb is to measure, HD. You want the flange to sit tight on top of your tile floor.

You should be able to cut the pipe length to allow you to slide the fitting nearly the full depth of the socket in the flange fitting. Won't hurt if the pipe's a quarter-inch short.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 07:31 PM   #7
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Disclaimer: I'm no pro here. Far from it. But.....

Why tile if it's coming back up in a few years? Luan and vinyl flooring. It would look fine for a couple years and come back up way easy.
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Unread 01-20-2010, 06:44 AM   #8
HDmstng
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Thanks CX and DX, are you two related? Sometimes I let small details just trip me up, and getting the right height was one of those that did. The tile and Ditra was 3/8" thick (without mortar), so I just cut the pipe with a 3/8" stub sticking out. That should have the flange just about bottomed out with lots of area for the glue.

DX, that would have been a lot easier! But it is not 100% definite we will redo it down the line, so might as well make it as nice as possible for the mean time.

Oh, used Ditra for the first time on it, wow was that easy to put down! Should be tiling tonight (maybe tomorrow too) and grouting on Friday!
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Unread 01-23-2010, 02:39 PM   #9
HDmstng
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Dang it! Got all the tile in and grouted, went to put the PVC toilet flange on and it set crooked! The right side is a hair off the tile but the left side is ~1/4 inch up off the floor. If I screw it down, the right side should be tight with the floor, but no way for the left side, still about 1/4" high.



Can I shim the right side of the flange with plastic shims? Will a normal wax ring work? Then also use the shims when I install the toilet?

Aren't there cutters designed to save the ID of the elbow and I can just cut out the entire thing and replace?

Any suggestion on how to proceed?
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Unread 01-24-2010, 12:09 PM   #10
HDmstng
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Got a little help from HJ at Terry Love's forum. He said the flange would conform once the screws were put in place, and they did!

The stainless steel ring conformed much more than the PVC being pushed down and no shims were needed. I do realize what went wrong and why the piece went on crooked in the first place. The drain line had a bit of play in it, so when I went to cement the flange on, the entire assembly flexed down about 1/4 of an inch not allowing it to set fully. In hindsight, some blocking underneath the elbow or strapping was needed to hold the line in place. Hopefully others will learn from my mistakes.
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