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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:33 PM   #1
hocbry30
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Diverter trim problem

Hi, I tiled my shower myself and thought I got close enough to the kerdi ring while doing so. It looks like I didnt after all. The trim ring just barely covers the rubber seal and so I guess I should have cut my tile right up to it. I didnt think it would have been that close.

What are my best options? Do they sell a bigger trim ring or should I just rip out the tiles around it cut the Kerdi ring and tile as tight as I can?

Next question is, in the beginning I wanted the shower head roughed in higher but the wife said no. Now guess what....she thinks it is too low!! What are my options here?

Thanks guys as always!

tried to upload pics but it said a security token is missing? Ill try again
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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:46 PM   #2
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Bryan,

What brand of plumbing fixture are we talking about? Sometimes you can use the same valve body with a different trim..... The manufacturer will be able to help with that. You'll do best seated at your home computy while making that call so you and Mrs Bryan can pick one out.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:48 PM   #3
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here are pics. The tile is just plain subway tile
Attached Images
  
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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:54 PM   #4
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Bryan,

How long ago was the tile installed ? Thinset used ?
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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:55 PM   #5
Jim Cordes
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ah yea, those kerdi seals are kinda made for the main valve assemblys not diverters.

If the diverter has a seal on the back of the ring which it should. just yank out the kerdi seal and tile closer. You will be fine, those seals are kinda optional.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 07:58 PM   #6
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yes the diverter has a foam seal on it. Tile was set about a month ago and just grouted last week. I used the recommended thinset just cant remember the name right now. Thanks for the reply guys.

Now about raising that head? s pipe or something else?
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:11 PM   #7
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That tile is very well set and will be a huge PITA to remove. You run the risk of chipping the adjoining tiles when removing the next tile.

A larger trim plate may be in order.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:20 PM   #8
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You'll have a hard time getting those tile out without doing more damage, so I'd do like Paul and try for a larger trim ring. Let's assume for a moment that you can't find one:

Cut out the rubber Kerdi seal, then start removing the tile. You'll do best with a small hammer (not a framing hammer) and a nail set or punch. You'll want to break the tile up into little pieces with the hammer and punch, then try to remove the pieces. If you try to take the full piece out you'll wish you hadn't. Think "surgery" more than "demolition". Then you can replace the tile, cut to the proper size for the trim ring to cover.

You can try the S pipe if you want, or if you want to use a hand-held shower head, you can set it wherever you want. Something like this:

Name:  shower head.jpg
Views: 299
Size:  5.3 KB

Otherwise, it would be more of the same as the trim ring, provided you have access to the wall from the other side.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:31 PM   #9
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Ok, I do have access to the shower from the closet behind it. But I think we will live with the height for now. It is a standard height.

The tiles seemed to pop off real easy while I was setting them so we will see
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:33 PM   #10
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Usually after 2 or 4 days those tiles aren't going anywhere. Which is why I asked. But you can always try......
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:43 PM   #11
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I think I might just try. Im going to take the advice and go real slow and careful. maybe try a spring loaded center punch I have and dremel. I would hope 4 tiles wont be too hard but we shall see...

The hose thing for the head is a great idea but that would just be awkward since that is going on the opposite wall and the hose would hang in front of the controls. I try the S for now like I said then just consider surgery again from behind depending on how the diverter goes.

Thanks as always you guys are great.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:44 PM   #12
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Before trying to remove the tile, take out all the surrounding grout around said tile.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 01:50 AM   #13
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I think I'd avoid the spring-loaded punch. They're pretty strong, made for breaking out car windows. Depending on what you used, you risk damaging the substrate.

Again, you're doing "surgery" here, so you want the least amount of impact necessary to break the tile. Start tapping, then hit a tiny bit more each time until the tile breaks all the way through. Take the trim ring off, and start at the edge of the tile where you cut it, and work your way back toward the finished edge.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 06:51 AM   #14
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That's interesting, Kevin. I was fixin' to tell him not to bother with the automatic center punch on accounta I don't think the ones I've owned over the years would have enough "punch" to break a serious ceramic tile. Pop some tempered glass if you do it right? Yeah, but any tile other than porcelain is gonna be too soft and I think porcelain would be too strong to get anything but maybe a tiny dent. Never have tried it, though.

Maybe in Arkansas they got really big automatic center punches?
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Unread 09-02-2014, 07:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
I was fixin' to tell him not to bother with the automatic center punch on accounta I don't think the ones I've owned over the years would have enough "punch" to break a serious ceramic tile.
That's my experience with spring center punches too. I've had to use a hardened steel center punch and a ball peen to break up set porcelain tiles. Not a process for the weak of heart.
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