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Old 08-10-2016, 10:56 AM   #1
andyanth
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Tile-redi shower pan

I'm going to be setting a Tile-Redi 60x32" shower pan and was hoping to get the latest thinking on the best methods and materials.
I've read about the poor experiences, unfortunately after I bought the pan, but I'm going to try it.

From what I've picked up from this and other forums it appears that the best chance of success have come with a rather loose mix of Laticrete 255, Mapei ultracontact, Quickrete 1102 , or Versabond products.

The installation instructions say to "...offset the mortar bed 3/4" from each outside edge of the pan". Of all the comments and videos I've watched, I've never heard of someone doing this. And I'm leery about the mfgs instructions based on what I've heard. Has anyone successfully done this?

Does anyone have any thoughts about the mfgs recommendation to determine mortar bed height (subtract a certain amount from the deepest rib..depending on the pan)?

I'm new to this so definitely appreciate feedback from the vast experience out there.

Thanks
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Old 12-24-2017, 04:51 PM   #2
clarksvilleal
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Andy - just saw your post (with no replies). I am about to install a 60 x 32 tile-redi pan myself - the barrier-free one with a linear trench-drain. Trying to decide what mortar to use. I've been using Laticrete 255 for my tile work in another bathroom, but assumed that it would not be the best top use with the Tile-Redi pan. Then I saw your post saying that was one of the mortars you were considering.

In any case I was wondering what you finally ended up using and how the install went. I have been having reservations about the Tile-Redi pan after reading some negative posts, but it was a big investment I'd rather not waste if I can make it work properly. So how did your install go, what mortar did you use, and do you have any tips to make it more likely I will have a successful install?
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Old 12-25-2017, 08:34 AM   #3
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Hi Al, Merry Christmas!

I don't know how Andy's post was missed, but it's now over a year old (Sorry, Andy.). I have no experience with the Tile Ready product (other than to know the company owner).

I hope someone else will help you out.
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:58 PM   #4
clarksvilleal
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Thank you, John.

And in case you're wondering, I think now that it was a big mistake to go with the Tile-Redi pan. Should have checked all the negative posts about it before I bought it, but it's too late to return it now, and it was a big investment, so I have to try to make the best of it.

Merry Christmas, and thanks for acknowledging my post.

Al
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Old 12-25-2017, 01:49 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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Welcome to the forum, Al!

Unless the directions have changed, Tile-Redi requires you to use an epoxy mortar to set the tiles onto their pan.

But, if you're going with the pan, I'll say these few tips to help keep you in the clear:
1) Make sure the framing around the pan will accommodate its exact size and shape as good as you can get it. The pan perimeter is about 1/2" thick and that necessitates that the wall stud framing to hug the pan really well so that the 1/2" wall substrate is flush to the 1/2" sides of the Tile-Redi pan.
2) Make sure the substrate is dead flat before you set the pan.
3) Follow all the directions to set the pan properly.

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Old 12-25-2017, 04:41 PM   #6
clarksvilleal
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Thank you for the advice, Bubba. I do know that epoxy is required for tiling the pan. The 255 was what I was thinking of using for setting the pan on the subfloor, as well as the other floor and wall tile outside of the shower pan itself.

We're totally redoing the floor. I have a home improvement contractor friend who is doing the heavy lifting. He just finished redoing our kitchen floor; the old floor was so bad you could get seasick walking across it, carcks in the tile everywhere, etc. He stripped off the old tile and subfloor down to the bare joists. Joist span was too long for the load; 5/8" subfloor with 1/4" plywood underlayment was all there was under the old tile, so cracks everywhere in the old tile, etc. He put two new beams in the basement to stiffen the joists, jacked up the beams to help level the floor, along with clamping down, planing and shimming the joists as necessary. Then we put a layer of 3/4" plywood on ledgers between the joists and glued and screwed another layer of 5/8 plywood on top of the joists and the 3/4" ply. Then Durock on top of that on top glued and screwed to the subfloor with a layer of thinset in between. The kitchen floor is now flat, level and solid, even with a 4' x 8' center island with a 600 lb. slab of granite on top. With the new 3/8" porcelain tile it almost seems like you're walking on a slab of concrete.

We'll be going through the same process with the bathroom with the possible exception of the beams, since I don't want a post in the middle of my basement home gym. But we'll probably double up the joists and do all the olther planing and leveling and subfloor stuff to make it as flat, level and stiff as possible. We're also pulling out a bathtub and gutting the old bathroom, so we'll be re-framing for the shower, and my friend will be able to build that plumb and square and the right size for the pan.

My contractor friend did not choose the Tile-Redi pan; that was my mistake, not his. But we're going to give it a try, and I think with his help we may be able to make it work. My main reason for choosing the pan was that I wanted to build a barrier-free shower, and Tile-Redi had a 32 x 60 pan with a built-in linear drain that looked like it would do the job and would fit nicely in the area the tub now occupies. My friend is not a tile contractor. Though he can lay tile pretty well, I thought this might be something more within his and my capabilities to make it work and be waterproof without hiring a separate tile contractor to do a mud pan. Probably a mistake, but too late now. We just have to try to make it work.
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:40 PM   #7
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Tile-Redi Pan Installed this week

So we did successfully install the Tile-Redi 32 x 60 barrier-free shower pan this week. However we made a couple of mods in the process.

Turns out that after removing a tub and re-framing a pocket door frame on one side of the tub, we had a few extra inches of length to work with. So after installing the pan my contractor friend John sliced off the right-hand flange flush with the base with his multi-tool, and used dry pack mortar to fill in the gap between the right side of the base and the re-framed pocket door wall. At my suggestion he inserted a 1/2" piece of homasote next to the wall's floor plate to act as an expansion joint just in case. So now our shower became about 63" long instead of 60".

The second mod was to expand the front-to-back depth of the shower from 32" to 36". John had prepared for this when he lowered the joists under the pan and left the Durock off of a 4" wide strip in front of the pan where he could use thinset to taper the floor in that strip from the height of the adjoining bathroom floor down to the lowered height of the front edge of the Tile-Redi pan.

While I was really nervous about the actual install of the pan because of all of the horror stories I had read on this and other forums, it actually went pretty smoothly. We used Laticrete 255 multimax to set the pan, and at my insistence we flipped the pan upside down on the bathroom floor alongside the shower space, and then filled all of the spaces between the ribs with the 255 mortar. Took about a bag and a half of the 255. We then spread a layer of the 255 mortar on the lowered floor and combed it with a 1/4" x 1/4" square notched trowel, and then flipped the pan over, setting it into the lowered floor area, used a 3-foot pry bar to push it against the left wall, and also muscled it against the back wall. After letting it sit for a day to let the Laticrete mortar set, John then mixed up a small batch of dry pack mortar and filled in the 2-1/2" gap between the right side of the pan and the homasote strip along the pocket door wall framing.

Today we let it sit again, and tomorrow we will apply Nobelseal TS to the pan with the epoxy thinset supplied with the Tile-Redi pan. I checked with Noble first to be sure that the Nobleseal was compatible with epoxy thinset, and they said yes, no problem. The big advantage of the Nobleseal TS on the pan is that we can now use regular thinset - 255 Multimax again, in our case - to apply the tile to the pan. We'll also be using Nobleseal on the entire bathroom floor adjacent to the shower pan area, and on the shower walls up to a height of about 6', which Noble specifies as a requirement when the Nobleseal TS on the floor is lapped up onto the front surface of the Durock walls.

Attached are the photos of the pan after it was installed. You can see the dry pack mortar extension as the dark band on the right in the first photo, and toward the top in the second photo taken while standing inside the pan. BTW, the pan felt rock solid when I stood in it to take the second photo. I'm pumped! This looks like it is going to be a winner.

Yeah, I know it would probably have been quicker, better, and maybe cheaper to do a full mortar pan, or a Kerdi or similar pre-fab floor pan. But I think we managed to make lemonade out of lemons with this installation - at least I hope it works out that way. I'll post more pics as the project progresses.
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Old 03-08-2018, 05:54 PM   #8
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Nobleseal TS installed today

A couple of photos showing the shower area after installing the Nobleseal TS. Bonded the Nobleseal to the Tile-Redi pan with the supplied Redi-Poxy; used Laticrete 255 Multimax to bond the Nobleseal to the shower walls and the adjacent bathroom floor area. Hope to start tiling the bathroom floor tomorrow with the 255.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:31 PM   #9
clarksvilleal
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Photos of Finished Bath with Tile-Redi Shower Pan

It took a while to finish, but we are finally done. Here are some photos of our newly remodeled guest bath, (almost) fully ADA-compliant, with walk-in/roll-in shower using modified Tile-Redi Pan, shower walls and entire bathroom floor sealed with NobleSeal TS membrane.
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