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Old 03-05-2018, 11:46 AM   #1
kenbig
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tile redi shower base install

Finally after three tries I managed to install our 36 x 36 tile redi base, it was impossible to do the approved way. I ended up flipping it over and filling in the ribs letting it set up and then buttering it and the floor then placing it. I can provide details. It is rock solid. In any case I'm at the point of taping the joints after installing Hardie board like they show in their installation video with their invented flashing. If done that way there is a significant step between the base inner wall and the walls. So my question is, is this ok because the thinset, tape and then thinset smoothed over it all plus two coats of RedGard will make this transition work when placing tile? Or do I have to smooth this transition better from the get go so the surfaces are as close to co-planar as possible?
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Old 03-05-2018, 02:00 PM   #2
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Hi Ken,

I have no experience with Tile-Ready products, but it looks to me like you'll have to even that up somehow. Thinset, etc., won't do it. Maybe a picture that shows a more of the installation?
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Old 03-05-2018, 02:39 PM   #3
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Can't say I've installed one of these either, but I did look at installation instructions online. Is this their Redi Flash?

One of the problems with putting silicone anywhere in the setting bed is that nothing will adhere well to it. It really doesn't even adhere to itself very well. It would appear to me that if their flashing is installed correctly, there's no need for silicone caulk at that juncture.

What's your intention for waterproofing the walls?

Reread your post and see that you intend RedGard. My concern would be bridging from Hardie to pan. The metal and the silicone will pose adhesion problems.
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Old 03-05-2018, 05:38 PM   #4
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John attached is an overall picture (I don't see how to rotate the attached pic before sending, sorry), I agree that I need to get that junction more coplanar than it is now to have my tile set and aligned properly. Fortunately all is only screwed in place except for some bottom silicon.

Carbidetooth. Yes that is their rediflash. Your concerns are my concerns. I understand that RedGard over the shower walls(Hardie backer board) is a good thing but RedGard won't adhere to silicon or the base. I have to use their epoxy thinset to set the base tiles, curb tiles and the side tiles of the pan. I believe for the walls I need to go over all the junctions and transition with thinset, apply tape and then more thinset and smooth it all out before using RedGard for final waterproofing. I don't know what to do about the wall pan junction.

I have contacted Tile Redi and asked them for clarification of how the wall board, to flashing to pan junction is done. I wonder what they intended to happen under and over the flashing. It would seem that the flashing would need to be bonded to the wall of the pan since that 1" wide strip is significant area especially where located.

My opinion says for an amateur it would be far easier to plant the shower base and then build the walls up around it if there is that choice. And to fill the ribs first.

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Old 06-24-2018, 03:20 PM   #5
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Ken,
Can you share with me the details of your "inverted mortar" technique? Sounds pretty straight forward, but would be interested in any tips you can offer. Preparing to install a 36" x 42" and wondering how heavy it will be fully loaded. Any problem with the "bricks" falling out while trying to set in the mortar bed? How thick did you spread the mortar?
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:41 PM   #6
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Funny we just started fitting the tiles for that base today. To answer your questions. Ours was a 36x36 and I could easily flip it over and there was no worry of the bricks falling out. I did rough up all the surfaces good before filling the voids with mortar. We used a 1/2 x 1/2 notched trowel for the the floor and the bottom of the base using the same mortar. Since I had the walls all framed how to lower the base into place with out disturbing the troweling had me thinking of several difficult complicated ways to lower the base into position in a controlled manner. Until my wife suggested tying a string thru the drain hole to lower it into place. I initially used their flashing system but found I could not get it adhere to the base with silicon and lie flat making the junction between the base and wall less than coplanar. I ended up cutting all the flashing off. I v grooved the junction between the hardie board and top of the shower pan and sealed the joint with silicon. Good luck with your install.
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:49 PM   #7
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Thanks, Ken. One last question... did you fill in the curb as well as in-between the ribs?
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Old 06-25-2018, 05:02 AM   #8
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Yes I filled in the curb. I cut some 1" foam board and fit it tightly in the cavities so that I had roughly the same depth of mortar in those sections as compared to the rib cavities. On recommendation of an experienced tile guy I know I used TEC latex modified mortar for large tile and stone from lowes and mixed it to a toothpaste consistency. I let it set for 24 hours before I moved it. I hope this helps.
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