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Unread 09-15-2020, 02:32 PM   #1
CommanderCut
1st Time DIY'er
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 20
Bathroom Renovation Questions

Good day!

I am a first time DIY'er. I am running into several problems and am looking for help. My wife likes to "shoot first, ask questions later," meaning that sometimes things get done/purchased quickly, but without as much forethought as I would like. I am the opposite, and I get paralyzed trying to research the perfect solution to every problem, then don't get anything done... What a team!

So here I have my tub (Bootz Aloha, porcelain on steel) installed, and although it was a very tight squeeze getting it in there, it seems that I needed a couple of shims once I went to screw in the washers to hold the tub in place. Unfortunately, this makes the whole assembly a bit thick and now the walls have this "bolster" at the level of the tub flange, meaning the concrete board won't hang right (I think).

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I want to install the hardie board down to 1/4" above the top of the tub flange. But the shims/washer get in the way of installing the concrete board, leaving a huge gap between the tub flange and concrete board (see schematic 1). So that doesn't work.

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If I go over the shims with the concrete board, I am concerned that my shim-job+washers (0.47" thick) will make the concrete board lean out too far from the wall, causing the concrete board to not be vertical for the incoming tile job AND not line up with the drywall nicely on the non-drain end (see schematic 2). Perhaps I over-shimmed and can take one out on the ones with two shims. But is it ok for the concrete board from stud to tub to not be perfectly vertical? Even one shim will cause it to lean slightly, right?

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Is the only solution to add furring strips to the walls (from tub to ceiling) so that the concrete board remains vertical and goes OVER the shims/washers (schematic 3)? This will again cause the concrete board to not be flush with the drywall on the right side of the tub near the window, but I read in another post that can be fixed with pencil tile trim.

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Bootz online install instructions don't recommend drilling the holes through the tub, which could avoid the entire problem by hiding the shims at/below the tub flange, but that doesn't seem an option either.

So my questions are:
1)does the concrete board need to be perfectly vertical when installing or is a slight bow permitted?
2) But more importantly: Am I best served by furring out the studs on the two short ends of the tub and installing the concrete on those? Or is there a better solution that is obvious and I haven't seen yet.

FWIW, my wife purchased 20"x20" porcelain tiles for the floors/walls. She has a bucket of redguard and a couple of mesh tapes, so I assume that is how she is planning on waterproofing. I am sure that I will have (many) more questions then!

Thanks in advance for anyone willing to help! We have our work cut out for us...
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Last edited by CommanderCut; 09-15-2020 at 02:36 PM. Reason: fixed a link to one of the images
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