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Unread 04-23-2005, 07:21 AM   #3
Trowel Monkey
Shaughnn's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Hi Mom,
If you shift your layout over from the centerline by one-half of a tile, you will have a 3/4 tile at each side instead of a 1/4 tile. Much better. Start setting from the bottom at the center. But before that, you will want to lay out your complete pattern on the floor, including the joint size you plan to use. Next, measure the distance from your tub to the ceiling and transfer that measurement to your layout on the floor. What size piece are you left with? I don't like to install cuts at the ceiling line if I can help it so I usually start my tub with a cut that will balance both the top and bottom if not plan for a full tile at the ceiling.
With the walls set, you can then tackle the ceiling. What pattern do you plan to use up there? A diagonal pattern can be the easiest choice because it doesn't require you to match all of the wall joints, which can sometimes give you some ugly cuts on the ceiling. If you border the outside edge of your ceiling tile with a variable-width strip of bullnose trim you can even adjust the diagonal layout to allow full pieces, which is preferable.
Best of luck,
PS: Looks like Mike beat me to the punch. And here again we offer you some conflicting info. I like to set the ceiling after the walls but setting the ceiling first allows you to tuck the edges of your cut tile under the wall tile, once it's set. This helps to mask walls that might not be square or cuts that have otherwise unattractive cut edges. Make sure to allow a joint for caulking between the ceiling tile and the wall tile.
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