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Unread 01-21-2022, 10:42 PM   #4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Southwest Iowa
Posts: 6

Apologies for not including location in my profile... got it added--I'm in Iowa.

I think I prefer the idea of the membrane over the board for a few reasons:
1) With the membrane/band you can overlap everything in a way that makes sure water migrates out (like flashing a window bottom first, then sides, then top)
2) I don't know anywhere around that I can get get Kerdi board... HD/Lowe's show some stuff on their site, but don't seem to stock kerdi board at all in this region. Rolls of membrane are a bunch more practical to get shipped than board.
3) I'm not crazy about the idea of foam from a strength standpoint... especially since a lot of things in this house (built ~1913) are not standard 16" spacing required for the 1/2" Kerdi board... so somewhat likely I'd need to either add studs (which probably don't match dimensions of current lumber), or use thicker kerdi board rated to bridge wider spacing that would make the tile stick out from the drywall.

CX, is the attached close to what you're describing as far as 1/8" gap between drywall and lip on tub, sealant, tucking membrane?

I watched Schluter's video on installing the tubkit membrane product earlier last week before I tore things out, so at that time I didn't know if there was even a lip there at all. My diagram just shows a layer of orange for the kerdi, but I think following their instructions I'd actually end up using the band to bridge the gap and seal to the tub deck, then put big section of membrane over top of the band using thinset only--correct?
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