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Unread 11-16-2020, 12:16 PM   #17
cx
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
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1. You want to use deck mud in that application. If you'll go to the Shower Construction thread in our Liberry you'll find a thread with an article all about making deck mud. Perfect choice for your application. You can make it the precise height for your tiles to be in plane with adjacent flooring and you can make it very, very flat. It's also amongst the most inexpensive of materials used in the ceramic tile industry while also being the very best for your application.

You will place it all in one operation and it will be ready for tile the following day. I would recommend you go no further than removal of your current floor tile before finishing the shower portion of the project and anything else you plan to do to the walls or ceiling.

2. Depends upon how you plan to make your mud. Read the article from the Liberry and decide how you wanna make yours. Then just do the math. If you use bagged materials, keep in mind that an 80 pound bag of Sand Topping Mix or similar is about 2/3rds of a cubic foot.

3. I would not predicate my floor construction on facilitating the removal of the tub at some later date. Removing tubs is always a PITA and having it mudded in might make that a bit worse. Optimal solution would be to remove the tub, place your mud bed over the entire floor, then set the tub at that level. You'll still be tiled in, but not so much. My recommendation is for you not to pay any attention to that at all unless the contour of the bottom of the tub makes it problematic for some reason.

4. There are no horizontal studs. Terminology issue. The wood I think you're referring to is the sole plate, or bottom plate, or similar, depending upon what part of the country you learned residential framing.

Yes, you can add blocking between the studs to facilitate nailing of your wallboard or you can install your wallboard before you place your deck mud.

5. There will be no concrete involved aside from the current SOG. You'll screed (shape using a straight-edge of some sort) your packed deck mud to exactly the right height for your tile installation. The industry thickness requirement for thinset mortar is a minimum of 3/32nds of an inch after the tile is set. If you're gonna make a serious effort to create a perfect plane with your adjacent flooring you should do a test using your tile, your trowel, and your technique and determine exactly the level your need for your mud bed.

6. You don't really want the mud hard against any vertical surface. Some foam SilSeal from the insulation area of your local home center is a good material to staple all around your mud placement area. You can trim it down after the mud is placed.

7. Please, please stop asking your plumber for advice on anything but plumbing. And in the case of your plumber, perhaps not even that. His recommendation for raising the floor could scarcely be any worse.

See Davy's post #10 above.

8. See #1.

[Edit] I see you've slipped in another post while I was typing.

No, you will not use a membrane of any kind on the SOG before placing your mud bed. You will mix a slurry of either Portland cement or thinset mortar and spread that on your concrete before placing your deck mud while the slurry is still wet. This is referred to as a "bonded mud bed."

SLC is Self Leveling Cement, or Compound. The name is a bit misleading. The material will seek level in thicker applications, but it requires some help in actually finishing as a flat and level floor. It's not as simple to place as you might suspect. There is information on that in our Liberry as well. It's also much more expensive than deck mud.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Last edited by cx; 11-16-2020 at 12:25 PM.
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