Thread: Moving toilet
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Unread 12-07-2019, 06:48 PM   #3
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 14,038
FWIW, especially on larger fittings, it's nearly impossible to push the fittings hub down onto the pipe prior to adding the cement. It's intended to be an interference fit, and it needs the cement to melt the plastic to literally make room for the pipe to slide in. So, your best bet is to actually measure the depth of the hub and work through that.

I don't know if they make one in an offset, but if you have a 4" pipe coming up out of the floor versus a 3", you might look for a flange that can fit inside of the pipe rather than outside. If it's a 3", don't look for that option. With a 4" and a flange that fits inside, the opening would still be 3.5" ID, larger than if you used an outside hub with a 3" pipe. This gives you the advantage that you can backfill the whole area prior to inserting the flange later when the tile is in place.

Good choice otherwise on the flange...you really do want one with a clean through hole. Some designs are more like a spoon, and are prone to clogging.

Make sure you still have at least 15" side-to-side of centerline on the toilet to any obstructions to pass code. And, ideally, it would end up 12" from the FINISHED wall (less baseboard unless it's really tall), then pretty much any toilet you choose should fit easily.
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Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
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