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Unread 01-23-2019, 09:48 PM   #54
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 192
0). FastenMaster calls them flat head but I do see they don't drive flush, so I follow. That's the closest I can find to actual flathead in that length. Can I just get a 7" and drive them through all 3 2x8s?

1). Understood. I wouldn't sister each joist with LVL but I'll pay extra for overkill on this one joist. It's supporting a bunch of heavy stuff. Also its near impossible to get anything but rained-on #2 SPF 2x8s here, this will save me a lot of time. Of course I've seen LVL kept outside too...

2). I was mistaken. The broken joists are just beside the footprint of the wall. The wall runs parallel to them, the stacks run up inside it. Doesn't change much, that side has cabinets, a dishwasher, and flooring over it. I'm not going to jack up the studs. I'll attach it to the whole joist where it is. I really don't want to ruin what I just finished in the bathroom and the floor is not that out of whack.

I checked the gap between the sisters: it's as wide as 1/4" in places but the joists are tighter together at the top. There are only a few spots where I can get a drywall shim all the way up to the floor boards.

I'm making this too complicated, had a long week. Wayne you gave me a good plan on page 3 of this thread: new sister attached tightly to whole joist with 3" lag screws and glue, attach blocking on cracked side to good joists with longer screws with cracked joist acting as spacer (fill gap with shim), secure important parts of cracked joist to good joist with a few additional screws, let bad part of cracked joist hang there and do nothing (maybe trim it). Ends of new sister don't rest on sill/beam, no through-bolts, old joists aren't drawn together, nothing is jacked up (maybe just 1/8" in the center to load the new sister a bit, that seems about as hard on the wall as bouncing on the floor, right?) Sound reasonable?
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