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Unread 04-20-2021, 04:24 AM   #2
Just In Tile LLC
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,432
Atta Boy Lou,
Get that mud work going and you'll spoil yourself on a setting base.

1)I'd use roofing felt on the framing since it breathes if you're going to topical waterproof as well.

2)I would because.... that's how i was taught and like separating the mud from the wood. Just wrap your felt around.

3)The scratch is there to solidify the wire and make a stable base for your brown coat. You don't need much but want to cover the wire. If you have time, it's a good idea to have a level handy and add more mud where the wall is really out during the scratch. That way you won't need such a heavy float.
But again, it's a rough coat so you don't have to try and find every spot and plumb them out, just the major areas (if any)

4)In most the shower (where there is open stud bays) I lay the scratch on lightly, by "almost" letting it glide off my tipped trowel onto the wall. Reason being if you push too hard it just oozes out the back and wastes mud. Where you have solid backing push as hard as you want. You'll get a feel for it rather quickly when you see mud drop behind

5)Scratching goes pretty fast for me. 20-30 min maybe once the mud is made. I've done both; scratch each wall as I go, scratch it all at the end. Just make the mud like brick mud consistency and not too watery and your scratch will be fine to comb however best suits you. I'd probably scratch at the end because the shower looks smaller.

6)I'd say no, because you don't really need that much pressure, you just run your scratcher across the mud and its ok if you feel it skimming the wire/lath but I wouldn't say push it so you make SURE it's hitting the wire. I'd reference #3 again because sometimes you will add mud in different areas to make the float easier and you wouldn't want to add mud just to push it back to the wire again.
"Being world class means knowing you're good, but never satisfied you're good enough"
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