View Single Post
Unread 07-27-2013, 11:19 AM   #3
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 22,772
Hi Ron,

When the seams and corners are taped with alkali-resistant mesh tape and mudded with thinset, those relatively small areas will be repaired just fine.

The wall area down at shin level......adjacent to the tub's apron on either side is a highly prone area to moisture damage. It's a common area to rot out if it's just drywall...even if tile is covering it. I'd want the cement board substrate to extend out at least 2" out from the face of the tub apron.

And you'll want either a moisture retarder behind the cement board (overlapped onto the tub's tile flange) or a surface waterproofing on the front of the cement board (not both). You've already mentioned and we can see from the picture a lack of a moisture retarder behind, so a surface waterproofer is a good method to proceed from here. This type of paint-on waterproofing is done after the seams are taped, mudded (with thinset), and dried properly. Do realize 2 coats of the appropriate thickness are required by the manufacturer to make it waterproof to their intended level of performance.

Finally, I can't tell from the first picture, but your temporary plaster guard (also serves as a depth guide) from the mixing valve seems like it may be out a little too far. Can you show us a closer picture? A view from the side just like the first pic in your post would be great.

__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote