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Unread 10-15-2020, 08:22 PM   #212
arnav
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 341
Hi CX,

I''ll try and recap where things are at, and what has been discussed.

1. Since the corner is greater than 90 degrees and results in a 1/4" gap between the side walls and tub (image), it was agreed it is ok for the CBU to be flush with the tub's flange (link).

2. It was recommended I use a strip of waterproofing membrane to tie the two together and waterproof that area (link)

3. I seemingly made the wrong choice to nail the tub's flange through the poly (link) and your reaction to it (link).

4. The options I see (link):

4.1. Switch the side wall screws to SS (the back wall is nailed and is fine). Apply a 10" redguard strip over fiba tape.
Or
4.2. Eliminate the side wall screws. Remove the CBU on the side walls. Seal the barrier holes with weathering tape.
Or
4.3. Eliminate the side wall screws. Remove the CBU. Apply new 6 mil poly to the sides overlaping a few inches with the back wall's poly.
Or
4.4. Start all over (including the backwall where the CBU overhangs the flange) with new 6 mil poly everywhere and no screws at the flange for the side walls. The CBU would still be flush or proud of the the flange.

5. From Dan's response here, I understood that I should switch the flange screws to SS and apply a kerdi-band but I wasn't sure if I should apply the band to the back wall if there are no tub flange screw holes through the poly there and the CBU overhangs the flange

Open to suggestions as to the best course of action if at all? At the end of the day, are the screws holding the flange any different than the screws holding the CBU through the poly 1 inch above?

Apologies if wires got crossed
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Dan
Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
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