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Unread 11-16-2020, 02:37 PM   #20
Pyohe
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Southeast Oklahoma
Posts: 32
Thanks, Tiger... Wow, that just sounded wrong! Thanks, Tiger Mountain Tile, Inc....much better! I can pour a half 5 gallon bucket of water to test the drain, but I know nothing about plumbing to know how to open the lines without a faucet. Maybe I can pour water on top of the overflow to check for leaks. Probably not as effective as submerging the overflow though.

The plumber was supposed to check for leaks per the manufacturer's instructions BEFORE the tub was set in mortar, but he said there was no need. He was also the one who said it was better to set the tub BEFORE raising the floor. Oh well, it is done now.


Jadnashua, I don't know exactly what a bonded (or unbonded??) mudbed is, but I will look in "the liberry" like CX suggested. It would sure save me a lot of time if I could tile over the tile. I am dreading this job.

CX, thanks. I will check out the deck mud tutorial. So, it can't go on top of the old tiles.

2. I thought dry bags was all I could use. The ready mixed stuff was different stuff. Makes only 2/3 cf with 1 bag? I will need eleventy-nine bazillion bags. Making me do math in my retirement!!!

4. Terminology/vocabulary- I knew it was called something, but I didn't know what it was called.

5. Terminology again! I assumed thinset was concrete....I have screed a sidewalk before, but not a floor. This may be beyond my level of incompetency.

"A minimum of 3/32nds of an inch after the tile is set." After? Does that mean the thinset AND the tile has a combined minimum thickness of 3/32"? No, that can't be right because my tile is 5/16" or 10/32". Maybe it means 10/32" + 3/32" = 13/32" combined total?

7. I know...we have gone through so many contractors who don't know what they are talking about....at least I will read and learn about doing something correctly even if they won't. It seems like everyone is sort of self-taught around here. Never had this problem with contractors until we moved here. In the large cities a plumber was a plumber and a tile guy was a tile guy...and nothing else. He had told me he does plumbing, shower floor and wall tile, drywall, and any construction needed. Before he left, I overheard him talking to my electrician about how they were both getting into drywall, texturing, and other construction work....red flag...getting into? Too late, tub was set.

Davy's comment? Which one? Remove the toilet flange before building up the floor? Or tile over the old tile but rough up the surface using rough sand paper to help the new tiles bond.

8. No mud should be touching vertical walls or the tub apron, so drywall should be done after I build up the floor. Protect the tub apron and wood with foam SilSeal. Drywall would suck up the moisture if it touched wet concrete, I guess.

I think I got confused reading about Kerdi Ditra floor membrane.

"You will mix a slurry of either Portland cement or thinset mortar and spread that on your concrete before placing your deck mud while the slurry is still wet. This is referred to as a "bonded mud bed."" So this means one concrete surface will be sticking to the next concrete (mortar) surfaces and that means bonding. The deck mud will be thick and the slurry will be thin.


I have to disagree with your ending signature/comment...

"My opinion; worth price charged." Nope, your opinions are definitely priceless to me! And everyone else's opinions too.

I feel like I am getting somewhere. I can listen to what contractors are saying, then accept or reject their bids based on what I am learning here.

I talked to two tile guys today, and none of them knew what all of you have suggested so I will not be calling them back. One said to use fiber board and the other said Hardie backerboard. Isn't Hardieboard more like drywall and worse than using Durock. My local lumberyard only carries fiber backerboard so that may be why they say they would use that.

Thank you all, again.
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