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Unread 04-10-2010, 11:22 AM   #9
efjellanger
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 22
Thanks Dana. The hole in the slab is pretty uneven, but it does generally taper narrower at the bottom, and parts of it have the kind of ledge you're talking about. There's also already plastic between the slab and the dirt, which is a good thing. The drain pipe looks to be in perfectly good condition to me.

For the patch, I saw it suggested elsewhere to paint the edges of the existing cement with thinset, is this important or will new cement ever bond to old?

I had read the Kerdi drain rough-in instructions before but I think I understand a bit better now. If I intend for the drain to sit one inch above the slab (which will allow ample room for the mud bed), it means that the pipe should end 1 3/4" below the slab? I have plenty of room in there right now and I think if I use the 4" coupler method I will have plenty of room to cut the pipe (with the drill bit) later.

The cracks are really just fractures, I tried to take a picture of one (above) but it really doesn't show well. No vertical displacement. Not wide enough to get a fingernail in, except in one spot where I can just start to dig a nail in. But there are a few of them, they are long (several feet) and they criss-cross the room, so I tend to think some kind of suppressant is needed.

The missing chunk is shown in the third picture, it's about 5" by 1" exposed and it goes underneath the wall.

The toilet flange is intact and seems in good shape apart from the bolts.

Thank you for the help!
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Eric
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