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Unread 04-10-2010, 11:00 AM   #8
dhagin
builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: oahu
Posts: 13,164
Hi Eric,

With that hole, I don't think I'd worry too much about getting some rebar in there, though you could stick a few short pieces of #3 in there if you'd like. Looks like there's a small ledge around the bottom edge of the concrete? I'd leave that exposed for the new concrete to set on and call it good. I'd use crushed gravel and pack it in there up to the bottom of the 'ledge', then concrete up from there.

...but before all that, what condition is the drainage piping in? Structurally sound? Loose? Any holes? Check this link in the Liberry for Kerdi Drain rough-in info... you got room to get the new drain in there without reworking the piping?

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=28637

It's always recommended to install plastic under concrete slabs on grade, so stick a piece in there if you can. Be advised that unless it's currently under the rest of the slab, installed correctly, and overlapped properly at your patch, the benefit may be greatly reduced.

For the cracks;
Are the sides of the cracks the same height or different? If different, how much? How wide are the cracks? How long?

For the missing chunk;
How wide? How close to wall? also, answer the crack questions above...

For the toilet, clean around the flange well and you'll see some slots to remove and replace the old bolts with new. Just take them out for now and replace when you install the toilet, they'll just be in the way until then. Is the flange intact? or broken and loose?
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"the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "
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