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Unread 01-06-2019, 02:32 PM   #89
Tile Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SE MI
Posts: 329
Originally Posted by Lazarus View Post
With Kerdi, really isn't necessary to tape and skim the seams. In point of fact, the Kerdi membrane doesn't play well with drywall mud and takes the place of tape. If you can get rid of it, I would.
Laz, I'm going to leave the mud on the ceiling seams and some irregular areas and paint with PVA primer to prevent it from washing out with thinset application. Schluter's documentatio recommends that if theres mud on the walls. The rest of the mud will be sponge washed off of the walls where it's not necessary.

So I installed the last sheet of drywall where the valve and diverter is located after installing the cartridge for each and verifying they were both set to 'off'. I Precut sheets of kerdi for each wall last night and plan on joining the seams with kerdi tape.

This morning, I stapled down the tar paper and screwed down overlapping sheets of diamond lath to the floor. I installed my kerdi drain after measuring the riser and all went well with one exception.

The p-trap must not have been 100% level when I set the drain location initially and my glued kerdi drain flange was off by 3/16" on one side. I did some digging on here and Terry Love and saw that some used coated screws or roofing nails to give the drain a "nudge" to level position. I countersunk the hole so that the screw would sit flat on the flange. I didn't have to sink the screw in too far to get the drain level. I added screws to three other sides too just to keep the assembly Ridgid while I kerdi the walls this week.

Is this ok? I plan on thinsetting the bottom of the flange before packing wet mud under it, setting a bucket on top, and removing the screws later if need be. I'd rather not cut the riser if I don't have to.

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Last edited by jgleason; 02-11-2019 at 08:00 PM.
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