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Unread 10-22-2021, 04:38 PM   #1
Randall5
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seekonk, MA
Posts: 25
Order of operations [mud work]

So, I am starting a new project, full bathroom remodel, and plan to do all/most of the work. I have read most of the posts on this forum and some other sources regarding mud work. I REALLY want to try to do my own mud job, start to finish. I just really find the "art" of it appealing, and as most people, I want the best possible surface and end-product. I (think) I know that it is not easy, but I am trying to approach it realistically and open minded. With that in mind, I think I have the idea about how to go about this, from start to finish, but as with many things, you don't know what you don't know. I wanted to run this sequence by the forum members to see if I am on the right path. This is for a 3'x4' shower, 3 walls, glass entry doors.

1. Assuming the subfloor is prepared properly, and the curb is in place (stacked 2x4). Walls can be just 15# tar paper, stapled floor to ceiling to joists. I could also install some form of backerboard (drywall, densshield, cbu, etc.) but it is not mandatory, correct?

2. Install 2x10 at bottom of stud cavity for liner support.

3. Pre-slope floor, using deck mud. Dry, well-packed, and sloped 1/4"/ft. to drain flange.

4. Install PVC liner. Cut around bolts, and center opening. Silicone between flange and bottom of liner. Fold corners, fold over curb. No penetrations of liner over curb or within bottom few inches of sides.

5. Next, diamond lath on walls. Ceiling to top of liner, stapled and shaped as best as possible to not protrude into the shower.

6. Mix fat mud for walls (4:1:1). Press first layer into lath, allow to setup slightly, then add thickness for float strips. Plumb, level and square strips on all walls.

7. Fill in space between strips, then screed with straightedge. Fill any gaps and re-screed. Ensure walls are perpendicular to each other.

8. Allow to setup, then score and remove the strips. Fill in the gaps, and smooth the surface with float.

9. Allow to dry overnight.

10. After the walls are done, deck mud for shower base. Use pebbles for weep holes, and set drain height. Slope 1/4"/ft. from walls to drain.

At this point, you could/should have a flat, plumb, square solid shower stall. Sounds a LOT easier in print than I expect it will be.

Couple questions:

1. When do you do the curb? Same time as the walls?

2. If you use 1/2" strips on adjacent surfaces (drywall, etc.) then the mud will protrude 1/2" from rest of wall, and the tile will add another couple 1/8"s. How to make that transition? Trim tile (pencil) or trim edging (schluter)?

3. Do you mix the mud as you go? I may/may not have a helper, and I am concerned about working time between batches. Would hate to mix too much, and have it harden while 1/2 way through a wall, and then be out of material. I would think timing of that is critical.

4. I guess the biggest question was the liner/felt transition on the walls. Felt over liner? Liner over felt? Liner over solid surface if I go that route? Then mud over liner? I have seen some detail drawings, but most assume liners are installed with CBU surface, and don't really show the assembly of a mud wall.

Anyway, that's a lot of questions, and i really appreciate any insight that can be provided.

Randy
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