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-   -   Jason's Small Shower Rebuild (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=119378)

wkumtrider 03-20-2016 06:22 AM

Jason's Small Shower Rebuild
 
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Hi Everyone,

I have started tearing out the shower in my small bathroom. This will be my first shower rebuild, so I'm sure I'll have questions along the way. I've done quite a bit of research but there always seems to be something that pops up that you can't find in the forums or elsewhere on the internet.

I plan to keep the exisiting floor tile in place because it is in good shape. My first question is about the floor tile grout that contacts the outer tile of the shower curb. When the curb tile is removed it will probably damage or remove the floor grout. Is there tips or tricks to keep from completely removing this grout? My concern is trying to find the correct color grout to replace the removed grout. THe floor tile has been in place for a little over 8 years (was there before we moved in). Thanks for any advice!

PC7060 03-20-2016 06:31 AM

Hi Jason, welcome to the forum.

i wouldn't worry about matching grout at this time. You will most likely find it necessary to remove that first row of floor tiles to allow the curb to be rebuilt.

Good luck on your project.

Davy 03-20-2016 07:11 AM

If you plan to keep the bath floor, get a tarp or cardboard and cover it up. Tape around the edges to keep debris from getting under it. That will make clean up easier too. :)

wkumtrider 03-20-2016 11:22 AM

Thanks guys. I plan to lay a mud pan since this is a pretty small shower. Should I install the new walls first before installing the mud pan? If so, how far down should they be above the floor?

Thanks!

Davy 03-20-2016 01:40 PM

First of all, figure out which installation method you want to go with. If you want to go with the traditional pan liner install, go to the "shower construction info" thread in the liberry and check it out. There are other methods available though, many here like to install using Kerdi and others. They all work if done right. Some require more labor and less money in materials, others less labor and more money on materials. So, read up on which type of installation you want and stick with that method.

wkumtrider 03-21-2016 06:08 PM

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Today after tearing out the shower wall I noticed mold on the inside drywall on the opposite wall. Do you think this need to be replaced or could I apply some mold treatment and leave it as is? Thanks.

Houston Remodeler 03-21-2016 06:23 PM

Apply some mold treatment if it makes you happy. Once the water is gone the mold dies.

wkumtrider 03-21-2016 07:33 PM

Thanks Houston. It doesn't necessarily make me happy, but was just wondering if it is treatable or if the drywall should be removed :)

wkumtrider 03-25-2016 12:56 PM

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I finished demo'ing the shower. I have a few questions that I wanted to ask the pros on here:

1) I need to replace a floor plate that is holding up one of the wall studs (1st pic, its the floor plate closest to front of the pic. The one behind it is a load bearing plate in the basement). It is rotted from water damage. I obviously need to remove the wall stud. How can I do this without causing the wall (or other structure) to collapse? I'm not sure if this stud is load bearing or not, but I don't thinks it is. I can't see the top of it because it travels up to the second floor.

2) I want to replace the two handle shower controls with a new mixer valve. I want to center the mixture valve but a wall stud is right in the middle of the wall where I want to put the valve. Has anyone had to deal with this before? Is there a way around this stud?

Thanks for the help!

Kman 03-25-2016 02:42 PM

1. Are you sure it's rotted, or is it just water-stained? If it's rotted, it'll break away with very little effort.

2. Once you get the old valves and water lines out of the way, could you set new studs on either side of the old one, maybe a foot apart? If so, you could then cut away the old one as needed to set the new valve.

wkumtrider 03-25-2016 03:59 PM

Thanks Kman. I double checked the floor plate and it is stained and pretty solid. Doesn't break away, so I think it is good.

Your advice on installing studs on either side of the existing stud on the faucet/handle side will work. I do appreciate the advice!

wkumtrider 03-26-2016 05:39 AM

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I am now tacking the floor drain. It appears to be a 3 piece metal drain embedded in the concrete subfloor. You can see where the concrete is chipped away around the drain. I tried to remove the piece the strainer was attached to, but it would not budge. I'm afraid if I use any more force I will break something.

Anyone familiar with these metal 3 piece drains? Should the top strainer piece unscrew from the middle (or upper) flange?

Thanks for the advice.

Kman 03-26-2016 01:02 PM

I think that's a very old clamping drain that has thoroughly rusted, and you should probably plan on removing it below the slab and replacing it completely.

wkumtrider 03-26-2016 02:39 PM

So the part of the drain the cover goes on does not screw out on this one? Do I need to chip away the slab around the drain to expose it down to the p trap?

Davy 03-26-2016 07:10 PM

Yes, it screws out but this looks like a cast iron type and not plastic. Sometimes we reuse the plastic (PVC) drains if they aren't very old. The cast iron drains usually are replaced with PVC because the parts are rusted together. I'd bust out around the drain, probably a hole about 14-16 inches in diameter.


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