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Dave_N 01-13-2021 08:52 PM

Furring studs
Hi everyone
I'm starting to install an alcove 32x32 shower pan. I cannot move the drain and I have to add about 3/4" to one wall. Unfortunately, if I do that, my 1/2" cement board will not be flush with the existing drywall on that wall. That same wall is also where the door is located. What are my options? I don't have bullnose for the tiles I've purchased.

cx 01-13-2021 09:03 PM

Welcome, Dave. :)

Common issue. Lotsa options, all of which must occur in the dry area outside the shower's wet area, of course.

You can fur out the shower wall and simply make a jog in the wall finished with drywall tape and mud, texture and/or paint to match the existing wall.

You can make the jog then finish it with some sort of ceramic or stone tile trim. This you would, of course, call a feature.

You could cap the jog with a wood trim of some sort to compliment the other trim in the room. This can be as simple or as elaborate as Mrs. Dave might wish. This you would also call a feature.

You can fur out the entire wall and make jamb extensions for the door and pretend nothing ever changed.

Other minds will weigh in with still other possibilities.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Dave_N 01-13-2021 09:37 PM

Yes, thank you. I'm wanting to possibly cap it of with a role edging. Thought about finding one that accommodates 1/2" and use it for the cement board, and another that's 3/8" for the tile. They would just sit on top of each other.

cx 01-13-2021 10:28 PM


Originally Posted by Dave
I'm wanting to possibly cap it of with a role edging.

Sorry, don't know what role edging might be.

Davy 01-14-2021 11:00 AM

If you don't have bullnose tiles, what is your plan for the other edges in your shower?

Have you checked to see if BN tiles are available with your tiles?

Dave_N 01-14-2021 07:02 PM

I'm using schluter tile edging.

Dave_N 01-14-2021 07:16 PM

If I'm using cement board for my shower walls and will follow up with aqua defense. How do I cut cement board neatly for a niche? I need to cut "strips" to line the inside of the niche also correct? Won't it be crumbly?
I see a million of YouTube videos with guys using green board and a few coats of aqua defense or red guard.... but I know you guys say green board is the devil ????. Just seems much easier to build a niche out of that.

cx 01-14-2021 07:37 PM

Dave, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

There are only two direct bonded waterproofing membranes (ANSI A118.10) out there that are approved for use over gypsum drywall in a wet area and neither of them are liquid applied. And even with those we'd recommend plain white drywall and not MR board (greenboard, etc). In fact, best to pretend you've never heard of greenboard nor any application for which it is necessary on accounta there really aren't any. Well, actually the only potential reason it could be necessary is if an out of date code compliance inspector wants to see it in some particular are of your bathroom.

You can cut a CBU with various saws and grinders, but it's a very dusty process and best done outdoors in a good breeze. Some you can score and snap fairly easily and cleanly, but for narrow strips I'd recommend the saw.

And yes, if you wanna use those liquid applied membrane you must first install a CBU and treat all the joints and seams per manufacturer's instructions before waterproofing.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Dave_N 01-15-2021 10:49 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Will this product work as a mortar under a preformed shower pan?

Dave_N 01-15-2021 12:18 PM

Also, I've read of people putting plastic down first before the mortar? My shower pan in particular will be on concrete, and not a subfloor.

cx 01-15-2021 12:58 PM

You're talking about some kind of composite shower receptor that says you bed it in mortar, Dave?

Dave_N 01-15-2021 01:16 PM

Yes, exactly. An acrylic shower pan.

ss3964spd 01-15-2021 01:22 PM

I'd use plastic on the top and bottom. You might never have to demo it again but someone will. ;)

cx 01-15-2021 01:22 PM

Then no, that would not be an appropriate product. In that same brand you'd want their Mortar Mix or Mason's Mix. The Mortar Mix being a Type N mortar and the Mason's Mix a Type S mortar. Either will work in your application. What you want is something that will moosh (to use the technical term) down and fill around the contours in the bottom of that receptor. The Sand Mix won't do that as well.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Dave_N 01-15-2021 01:29 PM

Thank you very much, appreciate the feedback!!
So yes on the plastic? My instructions for the pan don't say anything about screwing to the studs? Only mortar. Is that correct?

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