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-   -   Bathroom Renovation waterproofing (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=77726)

A2theK2 10-04-2009 10:50 AM

Bathroom Renovation waterproofing
 
Hey guys,

I got my radiant system in and my cement board topper, the rest of the bathroom is sheetrocked, I will tile the floors, and 1/2 the wall, I was curious if any of you recommend any thing else prior to tiling to make it more water resistant...I have a slipper tub and a 2 year old :) so i'm sure it's gonna get wet in there.


One contractor I spoke with mentioned something (red kap?) and I completely forget what it was...but I'm just wondering if you all have any thoughts...

thanks!
K2

gueuzeman 10-04-2009 11:12 AM

A slipper tub? You might want some peel and stick 3m grip tape so you don't fall. :D

All kidding aside, does this tub have a freestanding showerhead, and a hanging curtain?
http://www.oldtub.com/Sunrise_Slipper_815+.jpg

The product is redguard, and it is a paint on waterproofing membrane, good stuff. Not a bad idea to do the floor and whatever walls are close to the tub, in the "splash zone". While redguard is not approved for over sheetrock (only cementboard), your walls are technically not a wet area, but realistically they are.

Not sure that it wouldn't be a good idea to take down a section fo sheetrock and put up a piece of cementboard or two, small price to pay for long term peace of mind and optimal performance of your install.

.

gueuzeman 10-04-2009 11:22 AM

One other thing- the tub drains for this type of set-up usually have escution covers (the thing that covers the hole in the tile) that are hardly bigger than the connection, a very poor design in every one of these I've done. Your tile cut has to be almost perfect for the thing to cover. They should be providing an opversized flat washer in the matching finish. I've found them to be usually 1/4" bigger than the connecting nut, which means it covers 1/8" all the way around, which means your tile has to be cut closed than that.

:bang::bang::bang::bang:

http://www.oldtub.com/433_with_tower_drain+.jpg

Good luck.

.

A2theK2 10-05-2009 02:33 PM

shower is separate!
 
Hey gman thanks for the reply!!

The slipper tub will be separate from the shower, so it will have the 'telephone' hand faucet on the cord (like your second reply picture), but no shower curtain/shower head.

Is it silly to put the Cement Board over the sheetrock, considering I would like to tile it? I have a bunch of 1/4 hardiboard left over from the flooring and the sheetrock is 1/2 so if I removed the sheetrock it wouldn't line up, unless Redguard would fill the gap, i'm not familiar with it...

the estucheons are actually pretty big, and the drain/supply lines are actually going to be hidden from view as they will be pretty close to the back wall of the bathroom, I'm hoping it work out.

Edthedawg 10-05-2009 08:16 PM

I wouldn't bother with it, myself. Waterproofing on the walls in a non-spray area seems like a lotta work for no real benefit. I'd focus far more attention on the floor in that area, esp the baseboard or whatever other transition exists from the flat surfaces hidden from view behind the tub. Water collects back there, penetrates whatever caulk you've used, and then you'll start seeing water drips on the ceiling below, or rot thru the subfloor.

Phenoseal is NOT a solution here. i'd go w/ ample applications of 100% silicone. Not sure what your trimming intentions might be, tho...

also - if the radiant extends under the slipper tub, i think you probably DON'T want Redgard in that area. elsewhere in potential water-pooling spots - it sounds like a very good idea.

good luck!

gueuzeman 10-06-2009 07:27 PM

Ed, what's wrong with redguard over radiant heat? And as to silicone over phenoseal, sure, it's better, but isn't that all the more reason to surface waterproof the floor and walls with redguard, hydroban, aquadefense, or even Kerdi?

Yes, it costs more up front that a tube or two of silicone, but amortize that against a 20 or 30 year problem free install- pennies.

.

Edthedawg 10-06-2009 08:10 PM

Gueuze,

I was just thinkin' about heat vs the rubbery texture, but duh - it's made to be a floor underlayment. So yeah - no concern there.

As for waterproofing, i always wind up w/ issues @ the wall/floor joint, since i'm not always doing gut work.

A2theK2 10-09-2009 11:10 PM

ok...
 
thanks for the updates!

So it sounds like Redguard is the way to go, back to Gman do you think hardiboard over the sheet rock would work, or is that just bad architecture (i'm thinking water getting in between sheetrock & hardi)...

I don't want to rip out the sheet rock i have on the lower half of the wall because the joints have already been mud/taped...

any thoughts?


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