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LAN1870 02-21-2012 07:34 PM

How would you tile this?
 
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Went to an estimate yesterday for 5 bathrooms in a new construction house. The house is all concrete (slab and blocks for walls). The concrete was cast on site (in place).

There are places where the brick is cut out to make room for plumbing (as shown in the picture). There are also spots where the cement support column is sticking out further than the rest of the blocks.

There are fiberglass shower/tub surrounds which have normal 2x4s but will have to have concrete board installed.

Honestly I'm really not crazy about the thought of tiling right over the block walls especially with all the oddities on the walls.

The designer and owner of this house is an engineer and he really went crazy with the design of this house but I'm not sure if he thought it through as far as wall coverings go.

Suggestions? Advice? Thoughts?

TeomanTile 02-21-2012 07:38 PM

Kerdiboard over the block walls. Just like in the schluter kerdiboard video.

LAN1870 02-21-2012 07:47 PM

ah, ya. kerdiboard. I watched that video. Somehow I don't think this man will go for it because of cost. Let's just say he's from a country where 'bargaining' is normal (if you know what I mean).

ceramictec 02-21-2012 07:48 PM

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Leslie,

your going to need to use concrete nails and nail in 1x2 furring strips on the wall.
then nail either cementboard or drywall to them.

they (the builder) should have the walls drywalled if its a finished room.

Attachment 116256

LAN1870 02-21-2012 07:54 PM

ya, brian. that's exactly what I figured. Thanks for confirming my own thoughts.

tilelayer 02-21-2012 07:56 PM

Buy a remington fastener to install the furring strips or stub nails like Brian said.

LAN1870 02-21-2012 07:59 PM

Ya, i already have the remington .22. might need a higher caliber though.

ceramictec 02-21-2012 08:06 PM

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Hard cut masonry nails will go into the block easy.

Attachment 116257

it's cinder block, they not super hard or dense.

chefwong 02-21-2012 08:09 PM

I vote Hilti DX460 ;-)

Hank B. 02-21-2012 08:26 PM

I like to use my hammer drill and tapcon screws. if the thickness isn't an issue use 2x4 laid flat then you can shim them to be plumb if need be. Plus a 2x4 laid flat makes the joints in your backer board easier.

Tiger Mountain Tile Inc 02-21-2012 10:12 PM

Would attaching furring strips and cbu-ing over them be cheaper than kerdi board? I'm figuring in the labor, also.

Higher Standard Tile 02-21-2012 10:39 PM

How about floating the walls with mud? I did a lot of commercial kitchen walls that way. We lathed inside and outside corners but the mud will bond to unpainted cmu walls just fine.

PetrH 02-21-2012 11:43 PM

Quote:

Let's just say he's from a country where 'bargaining' is normal (if you know what I mean).
Just make your quote 15% higher than normal. That way he can "bargain" you down to what you want. make sure it's not one of the countries where they like to bargain after the job is done. I've run into that and it's not pleasant.

LAN1870 02-22-2012 08:05 PM

Well everybody. I think im gonna run far far away from this project. This man who says he's an engineer doesn't seem to want to do things the correct way. I really think he wants to do things in a hackish and cheap way.

You know when you get those 'signs' that a potential customer will be a nightmare? My alarm just went off. :suspect::suspect:

jwmezzanotte 02-22-2012 08:08 PM

Every single time I've ignored that alarm I've wished I didn't...


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