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DennyCrane 12-07-2019 08:43 AM

Moving toilet
 
2 Attachment(s)
Newbie here and have already learned a lot by reading. In the middle of my first bath remodel and have ran into needing to move the toilet over a couple of inches. I’ve purchased an Oatey offset flange with stainless steel ring.

I’m really into trying to do things the right way so I want to have the flange sit on top of the finished floor. The problem I’m running into is needing to add concrete around the toilet drain so that the flange screws have something to bite into.

I’ve chipped out some concrete on the right side to allow for the flange. The top of the pipe in the pic is the female end of the old flange sitting over the 3 inch pipe. I plan on cutting this away to install the new flange. My question is how do I make sure that I have clearance to fit the irregular shape of the offset and get the concrete filled in while making sure that I’m reaching finished floor height? I don’t want to set the flange and concrete around it only to have it end up too high. Thanks for the help!

Carbidetooth 12-07-2019 10:19 AM

I wouldn't want to fill that leave-out with concrete unless there was no other choice. Type N or S mortar could be packed into void after some wet sand.

To figure finish height of vertical pipe, put toilet flange on temporarily and slide tile and whatever underlayment under edge of flange. Measure from top of tile to bottom of flange. That's how much you want to remove from pipe. Thinset mortar height will give some wiggle room. Ideally pipe inserts into hub no less than 3/4 of the hub depth.


What underlayment do you intend?

jadnashua 12-07-2019 06:48 PM

FWIW, especially on larger fittings, it's nearly impossible to push the fittings hub down onto the pipe prior to adding the cement. It's intended to be an interference fit, and it needs the cement to melt the plastic to literally make room for the pipe to slide in. So, your best bet is to actually measure the depth of the hub and work through that.

I don't know if they make one in an offset, but if you have a 4" pipe coming up out of the floor versus a 3", you might look for a flange that can fit inside of the pipe rather than outside. If it's a 3", don't look for that option. With a 4" and a flange that fits inside, the opening would still be 3.5" ID, larger than if you used an outside hub with a 3" pipe. This gives you the advantage that you can backfill the whole area prior to inserting the flange later when the tile is in place.

Good choice otherwise on the flange...you really do want one with a clean through hole. Some designs are more like a spoon, and are prone to clogging.

Make sure you still have at least 15" side-to-side of centerline on the toilet to any obstructions to pass code. And, ideally, it would end up 12" from the FINISHED wall (less baseboard unless it's really tall), then pretty much any toilet you choose should fit easily.

Redlands Okie 12-08-2019 03:28 AM

Moving toilet
 
Install the new floor. Set the flange. Fill in around the flange with mortar. Install screw through the the flange holes into the wet mortar. Vibrate gently to insure no air pockets. Once the motar drys it will be a tight fit around the screws.

After the motar is dry screws that hit the original concrete can then be installed. This keeps the concrete from chirping off if a screw hole is real close to the edge.

Tool Guy - Kg 12-08-2019 10:48 AM

Only practical way I can see doing this involves setting the flange before installing the floor tile. Though I admit I’m not following Robert’s suggestion.

:)


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