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-   -   Recommend a Wet Tile Saw ? (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=127600)

dmypub 06-02-2019 10:20 PM

Recommend a Wet Tile Saw ?
 
I rented a wet tile saw from HD (Mk model) - cost 20$ for 4 hours and it was perfect for my home DIY needs. I decided I should buy a tile saw since I'm planning to retile two bathrooms, so I bought a "skill" wet tile saw for about 85$. What a toy ! It vibrated off my workbench, water flying everywhere ! (ok, I get it - you get what you pay for). So I returned it and am looking for something similar to the one I rented - which worked fine for my needs. I'm not cutting any huge or heavy tiles. I see a wet tile say by MK similar to the one I rented for about $225. Is that what I need to spend or are there any other reasonable products out there ? Thanks as always !

Tool Guy - Kg 06-02-2019 10:27 PM

Hi, Doug.

Was the Mk was you rented lightweight and easy to carry saw with a 7” blade...or was it a 100 pound beast with a 10” blade?

:)

pmcall57 06-03-2019 06:20 PM

I'm not a pro, but I'm loving my Dewalt D24000. Got it on special for $550 and will sell when I'm done with my kitchen and two bathrooms. Where I live that model sells quickly on Craigslist -- I tried a few times to get a used one but was never fast enough. (I started with one like you bought. What a joke it was.)

tatumjonj 06-03-2019 07:07 PM

I think you already said, you get what you pay for. When you're finished how much do you want it to look like you spent on your tools? Spend the amount of money necessary to do the job correctly, not to barely get by, while you revel for the next 10 years about the $300 you saved every time you look at the job.

makethatkerdistick 06-03-2019 08:04 PM

The DeWalt is awesome and still affordable for the aspiring amateur. I arrived at it by first going through Ridgid (Home Depot) and Kobalt (Lowe's) saws. I had various problems with those $300 saws even though the out-of-the-box features looked impressive. They just aren't reliable and steady enough. Yes, you can do it with a $300 saw, but at what cost, at what pain? I had lots of broken large format tiles with the Kobalt. The motor burnt out twice. The Ridgid didn't burn out but I hated the wobbly table and the overall feel of that saw. I returned both of those products for a full refund. That was about the only positive experience with them.

A few months back I saw a tile "contractor" set up his saw in front of a house in the neighborhood. Much to my dismay it was the same model Kobalt I had owned. What a choice! I feel sorry for the tile guy as well as the homeowner.

It seems that some of the professionals on here have complained about the long-term reliability of the DeWalt motor ball bearings and possible premature failure thereof. I am sure that is a valid concern when the saw is used every day. I doubt it'll ever matter for a DYI amateur who is redoing his home. There are more expensive saws than the DeWalt, but that seems overkill for people like me or you.

Additionally, don't skimp on a good blade. The DeWalt stock blade is ok but it's not the best in its class (a stock blade never is, really). There are many good blades out there that can give you the clean professionally looking cut you desire.

Elkski 06-03-2019 11:37 PM

I never buy habor freight tools. But I bought their diamondback saw last week. I'm using it now. 429$. Cuts 24" vwhich I think critical. It's why so many MK101's are fir sale. It has a 10" blade. I think I need to try a quality blade. It had a good you tube video on it. I tried to catch a used DeWalt 650-700 sometimes. But I looked at 2 dewalts in the store and the table had to much side play for me. The roller dia is bigger than the rail.
The diamondback cuts square to the fence. I did need to do some tweaking on the miter gage. I ballpeened a high spot sanded it into a nice plane. I JB welded 2 washers on one side because the left or was it right detent didn't set it parallel to the blade. I haven't checked it at 45 degrees yet.
It has a light and laser. The laser hard to see in sunlight. Doesn't really shine all the way down a 24" tile. I think I need to adjust it. But it has a plunge feature so I raise the blade up and check my marks on both ends of the tile. Nice rubber padded deck so tiles stay put even off the fence. I also have a felker 75 that does good but not 24" tiles and nit a strong motor.

Radas 06-04-2019 05:30 AM

I second (or third) the Dewalt saw. A great investment if you have a few tile jobs and practically pays for itself when you consider its versatility and avoiding all those trips to the store to rent and return one of their semi-commercial units.

SpaceCadet 06-04-2019 06:05 AM

To second Teddy's post, I've got the 7" diamondback from harbor fright and it's been pretty good so far. Needed adjustment out of the box but I'm reasonably satisfied with it. Think it's a new brand for them (a few months) and it's better quality than the old chicago electric stuff. The blade seems to make cleaner cuts than the dewalt xp4 I got to replace it on the way home from HF. I'm not a professional and haven't got much experience with wet saws but I did compare it to the ridgid, kobalt, and porter-cable wet saws in person and it looked better in quality.

That said, the dewalt is PROBABLY better. :)

Elkski 06-04-2019 07:27 AM

I was surprised the 7" diamondback could also cut 24". And it looks very nice except it doesn't have a rubber table top or so many splash trays. But for 250$ it was tempting. Tools like this and buying 10$ black market Niki shoes shows one how much corporations have been ripping us off.

speed51133 06-04-2019 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elkski (Post 1523889)
Tools like this and buying 10$ black market Niki shoes shows one how much corporations have been ripping us off.

:uhh::uhh:

navyson 06-04-2019 07:50 AM

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-...saw-69275.html This saw's relatively inexpensive. Had my MK 101 Pro stolen. Had traded out a little work for this since it was languishing in their garage. Used it a little over two years without problems until it finally died. ContractorsDirect had a sale on DeWalt tile saws that was too good to pass up. That's what I have now.

pmcall57 06-04-2019 04:38 PM

Glad to see I'm not the only one who likes the Dewalt for DIY. The blade that comes with it was not adequate for porcelain tile. I got a nice blade from Master Wholesale, such a difference. So that added about $100. Still a good buy, good results, having fun.

Lazarus 06-04-2019 05:10 PM

While the Dewalt is a great saw, I finally replaced my aging Felker Tilemaster after 35 years or so. Picked up the 10" saw from HF about 4 years ago and added the T4 Razor and it's "Dead Nuts" accurate, even today. For small jobs, the Felker TM 75 always gets the job done....but hard to find. :eek:

Davy 06-04-2019 08:29 PM

The bearings on my Dewalt were screaming after a couple years and the motor burned up after about three years. Had to put the Target back on the truck. I guess I could use the Dewalt for a boat anchor.

Elkski 06-04-2019 09:56 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Update:. I bought a Pearl mesh Thin Turbo blade today. I wanted to reduce the chipping since this porcelain is not through color. Everyone says buy better blades than all saws come with. So while I changed blades I decide to adjust it dead nuts. It was off shy of 1/16" in 11 5/8" cut. I also had noticed before going for a new blade that the blade was not parallel to the saw cut line. The chipping was more pronounced on the high side.
It wasn't easy to adjust it. The rail has 4 Allen bolts with captive nuts I guess.
and slots maybe 1/2" long. It's a metric Allen not attached to machine or provided. But no micro adjustments. So have fun till you hit it. I got the cut line square to the table fence in about 15 tries, maybe 2 hours. First hour was frustrating so I came back to it later. I have the blade more inline to the cut but I would say not perfect. How close should it be? I have room in the slots to get it closer but how long you hit squareness again. And if I move it more the laser line won't follow the cut line because it's on now. To test I cut a tile making sure the fence is clean and the tile is and then I measure with a fixed framing square.
I'm using a test tile that is just a free sample so I can't say if chipping is less than it was on my real tiles. But there still is chipping. I did skim read the manual and no mention how to adjust the laser. It looks like shims under the two mounting screws is the only way. It shines in line quite accurate to the cut line now. I tested this by putting black marker on the laster line and the cut was so close. But the laser doesn't shine very far along the tile. So not across a 12" even. And it's quite faint in daylight.


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