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-   -   Stacked stone and hardie board (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=127647)

ljchat 06-15-2019 09:25 AM

Stacked stone and hardie board
 
We're going to put stacked stone on the wall over from the bathroom countertop up to the 8 ft. soffit. Our issue is spacing behind large sink and faucet, so we don't want the wall to come out too far. Would 1/4 inch Hardie board screwed into the drywall be sufficient to hold the stacked stone? The stacked stone is not as thick as some, being about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick. I know most will suggest removing the drywall and using 1/2 inch CBU, but since this is new construction and we just had all the drywall installed, hubby will not remove the drywall. I'm worried that the 1/2 inch will take us too much space.

By the way, I just finished tiling two showers with 1/2 hardie board with Kerdi membrane and it they came out great.

Attached is photo of the wall.

Lauriehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b94f1cec0.jpg

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Lazarus 06-15-2019 03:41 PM

I would think that you could simply either cover the drywall with Greenskin or roll on a couple of coats of Hydroban or Redgard and install your stone. Minimal "build out" that way.... :tup2:

cx 06-15-2019 04:03 PM

Welcome, Laurie. I'll add your name to your signature line. :)

Not sure just why Laz wants you to apply Greenskin to your bathroom walls, nor even RedGard for this application. While your veneer stone manufacturer probably specifies a CBU or masonry walls for his product, I think you could bond the stone to the drywall using a good quality thinset mortar and be fine. I think you really should replace the drywall, but if that's not gonna happen, just tile it.

I also think you're gonna find that stone veneer a poor choice for bathroom walls, but that's entirely up to you and Mr. Laurie.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Lazarus 06-15-2019 04:27 PM

CX...Certainly you can apply to drywall. Greenskin or a SAM is nothing more than insurance and easier than putting up additional cement board and her concern was the added thickness...

Gozo 06-15-2019 07:09 PM

Laurie. Welcome to the forum. Can you post a picture of the stacked stone youre wanting to use? Some are thicker and have more texture than others.

In a bathroom non-shower area it will get some splashing, but nothing excessive. Regular thinset technique will do fine on the drywall. I did an accent wall in my bedroom with stacked stone (here: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...5&postcount=18 ). Still up solid, no problems with upkeep, just vacuum it every so often to keep dust off it.

In a bathroom setting, especially as a backsplash, Id be a bit hesitant to use something like stacked stone as cleaning dried soap and/or toothpaste residue off it would difficult. Also kind of rough rubbing up against it, but that depends on the placement of the area covered and how much clearance behind the faucet controls.

I like smooth, easy cleanup materials for backsplashes. Your call though.

cx 06-15-2019 08:07 PM

Insurance against what, Laz?

ljchat 06-15-2019 10:32 PM

Gonzo attached is a photo of the stacked stone I'm getting. Another photo is the look I'm going for. I'm not worried about splashes of toothpaste on it. We really love the textured look. I don't feel a tile of that weight should be on just drywall (paper) unless it just an 18-inch backsplash. This will be about 62 inches high. Used Kerdie membrane on both showers with 12x24 tile. Would that support the stacked stone? Nobody has commented on the 1/4-inch hardie board.

Lauriehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...982f67ab69.gifhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1409ebc68f.jpg

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Lazarus 06-15-2019 10:36 PM

Any possible moisture intrusion,,,and any visits from The Tile Ranger. :yeah:

Kman 06-16-2019 01:18 AM

I think you could use the Hardibacker if you want, but I don't think it's necessary. You're worried about it just being attached to paper that makes up the face of the drywall. But we're talking about sheer forces here. The weight of the stone won't be pulling the paper away from the wall, but down. It's stronger than you think.

Have you checked for any clearance issues, such as water supply lines, and from the wall to the toilet flange? Sometimes adding just an inch is enough to throw everything off.

Davy 06-16-2019 07:22 AM

I wouldn't have a problem sticking it right to the sheetrock if it has no texture or paint. The sheetrock will support it and thinset sticks like crazy to raw sheetrock.

ljchat 06-16-2019 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kman (Post 1524569)
I think you could use the Hardibacker if you want, but I don't think it's necessary. You're worried about it just being attached to paper that makes up the face of the drywall. But we're talking about sheer forces here. The weight of the stone won't be pulling the paper away from the wall, but down. It's stronger than you think.



Have you checked for any clearance issues, such as water supply lines, and from the wall to the toilet flange? Sometimes adding just an inch is enough to throw everything off.

Kman, thanks. By the way we're not doing behind the toilet. That's in it's own room. We're doing just from countertop to soffit. The photo was just an example of stone.

Laurie

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Dave Gobis 06-16-2019 09:57 AM

Another vote for sheetrock after it has been screwed to the stud every 8".

Kman 06-16-2019 09:42 PM

I'd add a power washer to the room, just for cleaning that stone. :D


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