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-   -   Backsplash between cabinet, wall edge and bar... advice/preferences please? (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=130902)

wraiththe 04-22-2021 12:20 PM

Backsplash between cabinet, wall edge and bar... advice/preferences please?
 
9 Attachment(s)
Hi All, long time no see. I have probably forgotten more about tile than many know... it has been so long.

I am finally putting in a backsplash in the kitchen. The Gap between the cabinets and the bar seems like it could be done a better way.

Would any of you have other suggestions???

I have a picture of the area and 8 photoshop alternatives... #1-#8. Please look and let me know what you think. (The tile is all purchased, along with some black schluter edging to use at tile edges.

I doubt the tile will go ALL the way up to the cabinets... there will be a small gap. (same under the bar.)

Can I grout or silicone between the tile and the bar? (I do not want a big quarter round there.)

Next up:
I need to cut and shape the edging,
do a little mudding where I had to alter some switch boxes.
Then paint it once or twice with "Primer T" so it will stick to the joint compound and gypsum board...

Using Mosaic Tile + Glass mortar (polymer Enriched Thin-set mortar) and the recommended notched trowels.

I also have impregnating sealer so the grout will not set in the face of the stone/slate tiles. I may go back for grout release.

Should I seal the tile before I put it up, or after/before the grout?

Sorry this is so long... I have a few more questions and will keep it to this thread as the Mgt prefers project advice stays in 1 thread.

ss3964spd 04-22-2021 01:11 PM

My vote would be the 2nd pic or the last, Kevin, but Mrs. Kevin's vote would overrule anyone elses. ;)

wraiththe 04-24-2021 05:18 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Thanks,
I was asked to make more but zoomed out... so here.

Attachment 219763
and
Attachment 219764


1) Also, OCD is kicking in, now I am concerned about symmetry.
The distance from the stove to the outlets is uneven. The one on the left is closer than the one on the right (15"/16") and the left is almost a whole tile higher. off the counter. I think I should do what it takes to make them even.

Attachment 219766

More visible here:

Attachment 219765


2) I planned to not tile behind the microwave... or below the counter... but many people do apparently. I hope this is not wrong?

ss3964spd 04-25-2021 07:56 AM

The outlet's left and right difference isn't bugging me - from here anyway, but the vertical difference is. Drives me nuts that builders do that kind of thing in a high visibility area. I'd also have to fix it, because OCD. And if you're going to open the wall to fix those an opportunity will present itself to install under cabinet lights if you don't already have them.

Don't tile behind the MW. Tile below the counter behind the range only far enough to ensure the you can't see any bare wall after the range is slid back into place.

wraiththe 04-25-2021 02:13 PM

3 Attachment(s)
ahhhh... Finally an electrician to wire a new switch to pendant lights. Also put in 4th switch to a box on top of cabinets, with low voltage from there back to the underside of cabinet and also along pendant supply and past and down to underside of cabinets by stove.

Attachment 219777

Attachment 219778

Attachment 219779

wraiththe 04-27-2021 05:23 PM

Double sided tape for test fits and cuts?
 
Hi,
Someone mentioned using double sided tape to temporarily fit the pencil tile and make the necessary cuts, then pull it down and use thin-set to put them up.

Has anyone done this, and what kind of tape would hold up the tile, but come off the wall easy enough?

I searched the forums and found nothing on this.

ss3964spd 04-28-2021 07:51 AM

Not sure I understand the need for that with the pencil's, Kevin, but I wouldn't want a super strong dbl sided tape for fear of damaging the paint on the wall.

wraiththe 04-30-2021 01:51 AM

Do I really need a mesh for joint compound in this case
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi.
Getting ready to prep the walls
1) have the 20 minute powder joint compound to smooth out the walls
2) Primer T when dry (twice) and start with thinset and tile.

Question: Based on the pictures and because I am putting tile over it, do you think I really need to use mesh for the compound?

(I really do not want to add a hump, the wall is pretty straight as is.)
Attachment 219847

Attachment 219848

Also, I have one spot where part of the paper peeled off (not all of it...) should I really bother sealing it before adding the compound?

The plan was to use a wide blade and just get it close... then maybe add a little extra thinset if needed to keep it smooth.... Maybe this is completely wrong?

Thanks,:shrug:

ss3964spd 04-30-2021 06:34 AM

While my gut says those areas are unlikely to crack, or cause a crack in the tile, since they are not seams my OCD says why risk it. You need only enough compound to embed the mesh tape, not necessary to cover it to the extent that you can no longer see the weave.

I wouldn't sweat that paper-less piece at all.

wraiththe 05-02-2021 06:50 PM

Choices on layout final three??? Mockups included
 
10 Attachment(s)
Three sets of options.... I am looking for advice on the layout... for the ends at the counter ends.

stop at vertical edge of cabinet:
Attachment 219880

Attachment 219881

Attachment 219889

-------------------------------

Stop at Horizontal edge of cabinet, continue to end of wall or counter
Attachment 219883

Attachment 219884

Attachment 219885

Varient to walls edge instead of countertop... not preferred
Attachment 219886

---------------------------------------------------------

Three or so rows above cabinet line. Looks purposeful?

Attachment 219887

Attachment 219888

Attachment 219882

Technically, I could also go to the bottom of the countertop or stop at the end of the counter top. too.


I plan on going past the counter about 3 inches so the wall does not show behind the fridge when on the sofa. I hope that is not ok and not a bad practice.

BIGPHIL 05-02-2021 09:25 PM

I prefer the second layout. I also like it where the backslash stops at the counter and doesn't continue all the out to the left wall.

wraiththe 05-06-2021 01:11 AM

Moving along- finally. 1 question at end.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Finally, after over a year... started putting tile up.
Setbacks. (other than overslept)

Thinset (Glass and mosaic mortar) was expired by over a year. (They sold me old thinset. (over two years old) Had to go find more.

A few broken tiles. Some of the slate is shaling, but at least Gorilla glue seems to work really well on this... I put a clamp on it and let it set over night before tiling.

So I am finding that (for me) it is really hard to hold up the mats of tile and move down the wall so I can pre cut areas for the outlets... or even the other end of the wall. Working by myself. The wide blue tape just wont do it. Even when I nailed some up... not quite the same.

So... I will have to make cuts on the fly... with added time for drying, this really cuts into the thinset working time. Glass dries quick, but not the slate. Small batches of thinset.

The other thing I find difficult is that I have to scrape the thinset out from between the tiles where I stopped... tomorrow I will have to fake it with out the trowel or back butter some of the tiles...

Enough whining... Hopefully I will get the rest up tomorrow.

OH Also, Been very lucky... I may just get away with out ripping many tiles. Crossing my fingers.

Attachment 219948

We are supposed to post updates on the projects right?

I just read on the back of the tile box, that you are suppose to put the thinset on with a 3/16" x 5/32" x 3/16" trowel, then smooth it out with the flat edge...

Ooops. I did not flaten it. Well... the glass is painted on the back, so I hope it does not matter?

ss3964spd 05-06-2021 06:27 AM

We love updates with photos, Kevin, don't be shy about keeping us abreast of your progress.

Yup, smoothing out the mortar is a requirement when using transparent/semi-transparent glass so one does not see the trowel marks through the glass if the tile doesn't fully flatten the mortar. Not a real issue for painted glass.

wraiththe 05-08-2021 09:22 AM

sloowwww
 
1 Attachment(s)
Well,
It is going very slow and I am wasting a lot of thinset because I cannot do this very fast.
I have learned that the grout lines are not going to be perfect and that is part of the beauty of it (I hope.) Working with this tile is difficult as I like precision cutting, especially where my edging is going to be, but because the grout lines are not perfect, I am hoping I can manipulate the tile to the edging side and the other side will be OK as long as the variance is small.

(even if you to the tile 100% consistent, the vertical grout lines vary.)

Working over the counter and under the cabinets have given these atrophied deltoids a serious strain and workout also!

Attachment 219988

To speed things up I have a much more uncluttered area and can lay out the tile on the counter above (and out of the way) I have sliced the tile horizontally where the outlets will be out of the mats (three tiles high) so I can place the lower mats and only worry about cutting the outlets out... and drying with a towel and hair dryer to get it in faster...

ss3964spd 05-08-2021 11:54 AM

I don't suppose there's any real rush, right Kevin? I mean, it's been over a year, why try to save time now? :D

Looking good though...


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