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-   -   Florida shower rebuild question (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=123387)

scottly 07-13-2016 01:51 PM

Florida sunken shower question....:-(
 
Read up on the Kerdi system and it makes sense and I like what I see. I have no issues spending the money to do it proper....With that in mind, here goes a dummy question: I have a typical Florida sunken shower, built in 1977. Appears at some point someone started about 18" up from the floor and replaced the tiles up from there(they are a different color than the floor and the first 18" up the wall). What I want to do is rip out from the ceiling down. Tear out the mud bed to the slab, including the existing curb. Then, install the complete kerdi system, including that pan and curb they make. This will guarantee me a dry, mold-free setup, no??

Am I on a good path...or can I not do that?

cx 07-13-2016 04:15 PM

Welcome, Scottly. :)

It's far more likely that the bottom 18 inches of the shower were replaced rather than the wall tile above that, but it matters not at all if you plan to tear everything out and start over with the Kerdi Shower System, which is a good plan.

My opinion; worth price charged.

CountryBumkin 07-14-2016 05:53 AM

You can use the Kerdi pan and curb if you want, but it's less expensive to just make the shower floor out of dry-pack and make the curb out of brick or cement block. The whole thing (floor and curb) then gets covered in Kerdi fabric and is tied back to the Kerdi drain flange.

scottly 07-14-2016 06:13 AM

Looking further, CX is correct in that the lower 18" and floor is what has been previously replaced. it appears to be sloped correctly, and the water drains correctly with no standing water. That being said, is it possible to chip away the mortar around the existing drain, replace with a Kerdi drain, and then use the membrane the res of the way up...avoiding the removal of the entire mortar slope?

Cain 07-14-2016 06:42 AM

No.

scottly 06-28-2017 11:32 AM

Okie dokie...finally getting around to doing this. Plan is to bust out existing mortar pan, etc. Use Kerdi pan, kerdi board, complete system from ceiling down. Couple kwickies: Since my slab has sunken shower, can I do this without a curb? In other words, floor falls right off into kerdi pan. I assume I will have to run membrane up to floor height and over edge of floor?? Also, do I use mortar or drywall mud on the corner tapes when I tie it into the ceiling?

Davy 06-28-2017 01:22 PM

How much is the shower floor sunken below the bath floor?

Are you planning on leaving the ceiling painted or tile it? If paint, are you planning on texturing it back before painting?

Just so you know, the Kerdi system eliminates the top mud bed that's used in a traditional pan liner system. That mud bed is where mold is sometimes a problem. But, no matter what system you go back with, mold can be a problem on the surface if not maintained. So, there are no guaranteed mold free showers. :)

Tile239 06-28-2017 04:43 PM

Becareful not using a curb if you plan on using a swinging glass door. Check slope of bathroom floor at the entrance and how much it has. Will the door clear the floor and which way will the water go as it runs down the enclosure.

Eric Woollen 06-28-2017 05:36 PM

I live in Florida and I'm currently redoing my sunken shower without a curb. I decided to run the floor tile almost up to the edge of the drop and will be placing 2cm quartz threshold pieces where the curb would have been. My reasoning was that the stone piece:

a) hides the cut ends of the floor tile
b) can be angled toward the drain to keep the water in
c) provides a little vertical room (2cm) for a rug for your feet when you step out of the shower. Though I guess you could just commit to only opening the door into the shower.

I have to admit I'm doing it this way primarily for reason a. There would have been some tricky angle cuts that would have been tough for me to measure and cut precisely.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

scottly 06-29-2017 08:46 AM

Davy: I plan on leaving the ceiling smooth. As to mold...I know anything damp can mold, what my comment referred to was water intrusion into walls and mold there. :-) The current shower floor is 3" below the slab. That is with the current tile and mudbed in place, so I am guessing once I chip that out of there, I'll have a 6" depth to work with. What I was going to do is put the Kerdi pan in, securing it to the slab with thinset. With no curb, that should leave me with a few inch drop from the slab to the tiled pan, which should be enough to contain water, no? Then either bring kerdi board down to the pan, or if the studs are recessed from the side of the slab, drywall it and use Kerdi liner to go from the pan all the way up the walls. In that scenario, the liner would have to climb a few inches of slab before it reaches the drywall. Am i on track, or totally lost?

scottly 06-29-2017 08:49 AM

Tile239 - Good point. Maybe the curb is a better idea. If I use the Kerdi curb...and I mount a door....Do I have to drill through the curb to use mounting screws, or are they up on the walls?

Tile239 06-29-2017 10:33 AM

U can use the kerdi curb if u want. Can also just use a travertine or marble window sill and sit enclosure on that. The enclosure should be drilled on the wall. If using a frameless put a 2x4 there for that. Frames, like a bypass, will be ok with just anchors. Also if u are using the premade kerdi pans, u may have to level the recessed slab for it to work properly.

scottly 06-29-2017 11:24 AM

Thanks!!

scottly 07-26-2017 11:57 AM

Unanswered question: Drywall comes down stud to to 1/2" above slab, and kerdi pan sits 3" lower than slab, due to sunken shower. Is it OK to trowel mortar from pan, up 3" of concrete, then onto drywall so i can run the membrane from the pan to the top? Will that 1/2" gap between the bottom of the drywall and the top of the slab remain a void, or should I stuff it full of mortar to fill the gap?

scottly 07-28-2017 07:50 AM

Florida shower rebuild question
 
4 Attachment(s)
Ok, I have the entire shower ripped out down to the drain. The curb was made out of wood and was rotting, the pan liner(not original) was naied up the studs and was leaking. Attached pics for reference. Looking into the shower, the wall on the left is an exterior wall and the shower base goes to the block wall, which means the studs attached to the block wall come out over the shower floor. The wall directly ahead shows damage from the time period PRIOR to the installation of the pan I just ripped out...House was built in 1977 and didn't have a pan liner in it when built(typical Florida). Wall on right borders a closet and has plumbing on it. Both the center wall and wall on right have stud plates that are even with edge of slab. It also appears to have a pre-slope poured into it. I plan to use the Kerdi 60x32 pan and system, cutting the pan down to 52", the width of the shower. Several questions: 1) Do I chip out the pre-slope to get a level floor for the Kerdi pan, or use dry pack to raise the entire floor until level? 2) Since drywall can't touch concrete, and the Kerdi pan will sit in the sunken shower below slab surface, How do I bring the drywall down to meet the edge of the pan? I was thinking about a moisture barrier (4mil plastic) between the drywall and slab sides. 3) The left wall will have a gap between the kerdi pan and drywall, because of the studs protruding beyond the edge of the slab. I was thinking about putting a piece of pressure treated 1x4 on the slab wall, below the studs, to make up for any gap that would be behind the drywall when it comes down to meet the Kerdi pan. Thoughts from the pros?


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