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cx 01-10-2021 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by Pete
So, 30% offset vs. no offset between rows? Is it "whatever I (lets be honest: my wife) thinks looks better?" Or is there a reason that I should avoid square LFT tiles on a tub wall with 30% offset.

That is the only consideration, Pete, no technical preference for one layout or the other.

My opinion; worth price charged.

CommanderCut 01-10-2021 12:29 PM

Cool. I think we will go with the 30% offset then.


CommanderCut 02-13-2021 04:35 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Ok.... So I think I have made a mistake, and now it is too late to fix it. Just looking for anyone's opinion as to what the best choice is here.

I have put my first row of tile down, second row all measured out. I think I have the accent tile either too high or too low.

So would you recommend that the accent tile go above the second row or the third row. I have done some really terrible photoshops of the two options. Tiles are 20" x 20"

Attachment 218381 Attachment 218382
(ignore the painter's tape)

If I use the full 12" of accent tile:
-Option one: lower border is about 52" off tub floor. Center is 58". 31" above the top leftover (maybe too low?)
-Option two: lower border is 72" off tub floor. Center is 78". (? too high?). About 11" above the top.

For reference: wife (agreed to be photo'd for this purpose lol) is 5' 5" and is standing in the tub.

pls 02-14-2021 07:27 AM

What if the bottom row and top row were closer to the same height? Hard to tell from the picture what the difference is now. Would that bring the accent row down far enough for option 2. As shown I prefer option 1.

ss3964spd 02-14-2021 09:36 AM

I feel like it's the pictured supervisor's call, Pete.

Buuuut, if it were my call I'd have it higher.

CommanderCut 02-15-2021 03:55 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Right you are, Dan!

That being said, I think I came up with a slightly more elegant solution. What do you think?

Lower strip below the original which I will place right at eye level (60-62-ish inches or so). And cut it out of the porcelain tile where it sits so it appears that it is going over/through the tile instead of separating it.

That tile will have the section removed and the remainder stacked on top of the lower accent strip to make it appear that it is still a 20" tile for continuity sake. Then a thicker strip up on top.

I was thinking 3" and 6" strips for the accents or maybe 4" and 8".


Attachment 218414
I thought it would be ummm, smarter, to stop posting less-than-flattering pictures of my wife for scale. So... here is Bruce Willis for scale.

Question 2: Is it ok to have the shower head come out of the accent strip? Or should I avoid doing that and have it come out through the tile instead? I will have to make more adjustments if shower-head-through-accent-strip is a generally frowned upon.

ss3964spd 02-15-2021 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by Pete
and the remainder stacked on top of the lower accent strip to make it appear that it is still a 20" tile for continuity sake

Isn't what my eyes see, Pete, they see a think strip of field tile and the strip of accent. But my eyes don't actually count.

But I like the idea of two strips. Perhaps a full height row of field tile, a 6" strip, another full height, another 6", and then whatever it takes to get to the ceiling without resorting to slivers up there. Given the accent tile it appears you could easily play with height of the accent strips and /or the number of them to get to where you need at the ceiling. I'd try to avoid cutting the field tile anywhere in the middle of the wall follow by full height field tile above.

No technical reason you can't have the shower head arm in the accent tile but, if you do, I'd think having it centered in the accent tile strip would probably look best.

CommanderCut 02-15-2021 01:39 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Wow Dan!

Everyone here likes your idea better! Thanks! What do you think?

Attachment 218432

Measured it out on the wall. The showerhead will come out directly through the center of the top row of accent tiles.

Top row of tiles will be 12" high (original height 20").

ss3964spd 02-16-2021 07:45 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Pete
What do you think?

The first model is more representative.

Oh, wait...

I like it. Certainly more work, that, but I'm not the one doing it so I'm pretty ok with it. :D

Understand the more work aspect. Your field tile is pretty big, requiring at least a 3/8X3/8 trowel, but maybe even a 1/2X1/2. That's a lot of mortar under them so, as I see it, trying to set those accent strips in that amount of mortar is possibly going to be quite a mess with a lot of squeeze out into the grout joints. Another challenge is if your accent tile is not as thick as your field tile, as was the case with mine.

So you may need to set the field tile up to the height of the first row of accent, then measure the height of the first accent strip, including grout joints, then install ledgers to that height. Then set the next row of FT on toppa the legers. Once the mortar sets pull the legers and seal the holes. Now you have the bottom and top field tile as a guide so you can screed mortar to the depth you need for the accent.

Photo attached shows after the field tile was set and the legers removed, leaving the space needed for the accent strip.

Maybe some of the pro's will have a better idea.

CommanderCut 02-17-2021 03:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 218467

Done! Dropped a tile though on the bathtub when it slipped out of my hand. Sigh.... One step forward, one step back.

I have been using 1/2 x 1/2" trowel for the field tile, so you are definitely right that the accent strips needs to be bolstered out. Probably quite a bit. I will screed as you suggested when I get around to placing that mosaic tile accent.

BIGPHIL 02-17-2021 04:00 PM

Not sure about the thickness of your accent strip, but another option would be to use 1/8" Wedi building panel to fill in that area a little. Getting an even layer of mortar in that space, while not impossible, may be tough. Just depends on if the panel will build out to much or not, but if you can find that size of panel locally, I'd give it a shot. You can pre-adhere the mosaic tile to your cut panel and once it's set up, you can adhere the panel to the wall with more mortar. A 1/4x3/16 v-notch should be plenty for a panel that size. Burn in the back of the panel before setting it on the wall.

ss3964spd 02-18-2021 07:44 AM

The Wedi (or other foam) spacer is a good idea but be mindful that any build up in that back corner may push the spacer out more than you want it to if the field tile in the corner was set flat.

CommanderCut 02-18-2021 01:13 PM

The gap between the CBU and the FT is 1/2". The thickness of the accent strip is about 3/16". I don't have any spare Wedi board, but I have read that Schluter ditra (about 1/8" thick) can be used to do the same thing, with the plastic side towards the wall and the fleece towards the glass mosaic. Any reason I should avoid that? Is the Wedi panel a better choice?

I figure I can make up the remainder of the difference by adding enough mortar and then screeding it like Dan said.

CommanderCut 03-01-2021 04:37 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Attachment 218609
So this was the goal - two equally sized strips of accent.

Ran into another problem (I am horrible at planning). I planned the long wall instead of the side walls. The accent strips won't line up with he new window casing nicely given the current goal (above).

Attachment 218610
Option 1: Accent strip has part goes over the window casing. This is a fake image (obviously). The real accent strip would have 1 row of glass tile continue over the window casing. Pros - accents strips will be equally sized around the tub. Shower curtain will sit on this side near the window and this will be partly hidden, I think. Same size accent strips for both makes life easier (same spacers, same cut in accent strips). Cons: might look weird in that one spot. Might pull the eye that direction because its off.

Attachment 218611
Option 2: Shorten the top accent strip (by about 7/8") so that it is in line with the top edge of the window casing. This would shorten the entire strip across the bathtub making it 7/8" shorter than the accent strip below it. Pros: lining up with the window casing looks nice right there. Showerhead will end up slightly above center in the accent strip rather than slightly below center. Cons: More work with 2 different sized strips. Might look weird with two slightly different sized accent strips around the whole tub.

Showerhead will be coming out directly through almost-center of the accent strip. It is not perfectly centered in either option given my sub-par planning. It will be about half an inch below the middle in option 1 and half and inch above center in option 2. The accent tile is alternating large row/small row of glass, so the eye doesn't really see the exact middle of the mosaic anyways (just my opinion).
Attachment 218617

Which option do you recommend?

CommanderCut 03-20-2021 06:19 AM

Is this right (schluter profile)
2 Attachment(s)
Still haven't decided about the previous question, but moving on...

Trying to figure out the right way to manage this inside corner. I have this schluter profile. Is this an appropriate way to manage this corner? Does this look right to you? If not, what is the better way to manage this inside corner. Picture of the more-completed wall for reference.

Attachment 219039
Is this right?

Attachment 219040
Other wall with matching schluter profile underneath window

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