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-   -   Jason's Small Shower Rebuild (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=119378)

wkumtrider 04-03-2016 02:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is what I got: PVC trap and metal flange attached to the pvc drain pipe. My thoughts are to cut below the flange and replace with a new drain. Should I go ahead and replace the trap since I got it exposed?

Davy 04-03-2016 03:56 PM

I would at least inspect the P-trap once the drain is cut off. If you see the red writing on the PVC at the top of your pic, that's about where I would cut it to replace the whole thing, which isn't a bad idea. You might have to bust out a little more concrete to do so.

cx 04-03-2016 04:18 PM

Well, chalk up a new one on me. Never seen that trick.

If your drain is in the exactly the right location now, I wouldn't hesitate to cut off the riser and leave the trap in place. But cutting where Davy suggests might actually be easier.

My opinion; worth price charged.

wkumtrider 04-03-2016 04:27 PM

Thanks guys. It will actually be easier to cut the trap off where Davy suggested. I have a long blade on my sawzall it it reaches it just fine.

Once I get the new trap installed, can I run a pipe above floor level, refill the hole, and then cut off the pipe to the proper height when I get ready to install the pre-slope mortar bed? I plan to install an Oatey/Sioux Chief drain.

Thanks!

Davy 04-03-2016 06:18 PM

I wouldn't do it like that. I'd go ahead and set the drain at the same time. Take a straight edge of some sort and lay it on the slab and set the bottom section (flange) so it's about 1/2 inch above the slab height. Once you get it put together and glued in, place a level on top of the flange to make sure it's level each way (north-south and east-west). If it's not perfectly level, you can pull on the PVC to get it perfect, even can wedge in a rock to hold it all level while the cement goes in. Getting it level will help when it comes to tiling.

Doing it your way is possible, just make sure to set the riser pipe perfectly plumb. Then you'll need to leave out a little cement at the drain. That, or chisel some back out for the drain to fit into the slab. If you happened to cut the riser pipe too short, you might have to bust out the concrete to replace it. I would want it all open in case of a goof.

Kman 04-04-2016 03:18 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Personally, I'd cut it where I've shown here:

Attachment 185144

The reason being that it's never going to be easier to replace than it is right now. The parts required are so cheap that there's really no reason to not start with a brand new trap. You can also visually inspect the line further down and make sure it's clear, and make any adjustments needed to center up the drain and get it plumb.

Just my two cents worth.

wkumtrider 04-04-2016 05:27 AM

Davy, thanks for the tips on setting the drain. I don't want to have to bust up any more concrete if I don't have to!

Kman, I am going to cut it where you suggested. I purchased the trap and other bits so I am ready to go.

Thanks for all of the help!

wkumtrider 04-06-2016 08:21 AM

I purchased a 3 piece Sioux Chief drain to install on my slab floor shower. Davy explained how to set the proper height of the flange piece before filling in the drain access hole in the slab. He said to set it 1/2" above the floor. When reading the installation instructions from Sioux Chief, they said to set the flange on the floor. That was with a wood sub-floor however. I couldn't find any information from them for a concrete slab. What is the purpose of setting the flange 1/2" above the slab floor? I just want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks!

cx 04-06-2016 08:41 AM

Jason, I say you want your mud pre-slope to be at least 3/4" thick at the thinnest point. That should govern where you set your drain.

The pre-slope is not governed by any tile industry standards, though, it's part of the plumbing. Up to you how you do it.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Davy 04-06-2016 06:22 PM

Cx likes his preslope thicker than I do. The thicker it is, the higher the shower floor will be. On a wood floor, I usually make it 3/4. But to answer your question, the 1/2 inch I mentioned is for the preslope thickness at the drain.

wkumtrider 04-07-2016 04:59 AM

Thanks guys. I'll decide how high I want the flange when I get around to setting it.

What is the proper type of concrete or mortar mix to use to fill in the hole I dug out of the slab?

Thanks!

Davy 04-07-2016 05:56 AM

You can fill the bottom with sand or whatever you removed from the hole. The top 4 inches should be concrete mix. I like the maximizer but just about any of it will do. You can add some thinset to the edge of the slab to help bond it all together if you would like.

wkumtrider 04-07-2016 09:15 AM

Would the Quikrete Ready to Use Concrete Mix work?

cx 04-07-2016 11:50 AM

Yes.

wkumtrider 04-13-2016 10:12 AM

Door
 
Is it a good idea to know what door you plan to use before you build the curb for the shower? The old door I removed had a threshold glued to the top of the old curb. I have not picked out a door yet for this project.

Thanks.


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