Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php)
-   Tile Forum/Advice Board (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1)
-   -   Bath Remodel (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=131745)

Jake12 12-15-2021 03:42 PM

Is the counter supporting too?
I’ll look into a small shelf. That would seem to give it some support.

Nice work on the shower.
Thanks.

Jake or Scott is fine. :)

ss3964spd 12-15-2021 04:18 PM

Nope, the vanity top is not supporting the half wall.

Jake12 01-13-2022 02:26 PM

Moving slow but sure.
Installing the Ditra Heat and anticipating correct thin set to lay tile on top of the Ditra Heat. 12 x 24 porcelain.
I’ve worked with Versabond LFT. Is that appropriate in this situation?
I believe I confirmed it on other threads but also see comments that Ditra and Ditra Heat are different.
Understand the warranty is out but have used Versabond on my other Kerdi projects with no issues. Just first time with Ditra Heat.
Thanks

Scott

ss3964spd 01-13-2022 03:14 PM

Regular Versabond, or VB LFT will do the trick, Scott, I used regular VB to install 12X24's on toppa Ditra Heat. Worked great. I did pre-fill my Ditra Heat mat.

Jake12 01-13-2022 03:26 PM

Excellent

Can you clarify “prefill”? Is that like burning in some thinset to fill voids and then troweling over that all at same time or filling it with a smooth layer letting dry and then putting troweled layer on?
Thinking it’s the first but made me think a bit.
Thanks

ss3964spd 01-13-2022 03:53 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Schluter says you can fill the Ditra and lay tile all at once.

I say I was confident that I wasn't competent enough to do so, at least not without making a giant mess. So I opted to install the cable then pre-fill the Ditra completely. I let the VB cure for a number of days.

Due to the thickness of the VB I found it shrank a bit after curing so, because I'm a little ODC-ish, I skimmed on another coat. In hind sight the second coat was likely unnecessary but, well, OCD. A few days after the second coat I started setting tile. You might be able to make out the difference between the 1st and second coats in the photo below.

cx 01-13-2022 04:28 PM

Heeey! That's not no steenkin' Ditra. :D

Jake12 01-13-2022 05:42 PM

CX
What do you suggest?

Thanks
Scott

cx 01-13-2022 06:31 PM

Pay no attention to me, Scott. I was just picking on Dan a bit. His advice is always sound, which is why the site owners hired him and pay him the big bucks, eh? :D

Jake12 01-13-2022 07:11 PM

So the bonding strength is the same if I do the skim coat to fill the voids and let dry then set tile?
Does seem to make the process more manageable. So I can focus on keeping wires in tact and fill the voids.
I’m leaning towards the LFT so do I have to use same thin set for both steps or can I use regular Versabond for first coat then LFT for tile?

Thanks guys for all the help and input.

cx 01-13-2022 08:04 PM

Schluter prefers that the voids be filled while the tiles are being set, Scott, but they also condone pre-filling the voids and setting the tiles as two separate operations.

They even "allow" you to use modified thinset mortar for filling the voids if that's then allowed to cure before setting the tiles, where they require an unmodified mortar. In reality, it needn't be all that complicated and you could use either of the mortars you mentioned for either of the operations, you'd just not benefit from Schluter's warranty, which you'd not benefit from in any case.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Jake12 01-13-2022 08:08 PM

Ok. Thanks Dan & CX. I have a day or two to contemplate and firm up the plan. Your input is a big help.

Scott

ss3964spd 01-14-2022 08:58 AM

Remember, Scott, that the thinset mortar doesn't actually "bond" to the Ditra (Heat), it is mechanically held in place by the way the columns and channels are formed.

The VB LFT you contemplate using has, I believe, a larger aggregate than does regular VB, and that larger aggregate is what helps the LFT mortar prevent LFT tiles from sinking into the mortar under their own weight. The thicker the mortar layer the more prone the tiles will be to sinking. The larger aggregate might also help reduce shrinkage.

I used a 3/8" slant notch trowel for setting all my 12x24 tiles, as well as a lippage control system, so never had that sinking feeling using regular VB.

In the end prefilling the Ditra (twice!) was an anxiety reduction method for this relatively inexperienced tile setter. Didn't have to worry about ensuring the voids were completely filled, or about combing wet mortar out of the voids, or about nicking the cable, all while simultaneously setting tile and ensuing good coverage. Only down side were the extra hours involved.

Don't forget to test your heat cable before, during, and after.

Jake12 02-10-2022 04:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Got an issue. My drain bottomed out when I was putting it in place. Not sure why but it would not go any lower. I thought I had the 11/4” space. But it was not going any deeper. At the time I thought it was close enough but now that I’ve grouted it’s leaving a puddle.
Any options short of tearing out? Had plenty of slope just got the tiles by drain too low I guess.
Was so concerned with all comments about difficulty of laying pennies and counted on ease of the adjustable Kerdi drain. Should have backed up then but that was then. Very frustrating.

ss3964spd 02-11-2022 08:15 AM

Even if you could lower the drain you'd have to remove some of the area around it to do so. I don't see any other options.

Squeegee?


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:02 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC