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-   -   Cliff's Master Bathroom Thread (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=130525)

Shaklee3 04-26-2021 09:08 AM

Hi everyone, I got that tile removed fairly successfully with minimal damage. I put the kereck strip on and am feeling a lot more comfortable about the waterproofing there. I also added a kerdi band patch behind where the fleece was slightly damaged.

Anyways, a new question:

I left my first row of tile in order to do the mud bed. the second row tile is 6.5" up the wall currently, and the tiles are 3-7/8" tall. When I originally was looking at the minimum mud bed requirement, I must have seen some old posts on here, because several places said 1.5-1.75" over wood subfloor (which is what I have), but I see now the official Schluter guide says 1" minimum. My farthest corner is 33" away, so rounding up that gives a 3/4" increase from the drain.

With just the tile two 1/16" grout lines, that leaves 6.5" - (3-7/8") - 1/8" = 2.5". Wife chose a ~1/8" porcelain floor tile, so with thinset I think that's around 1/4", bringing me to a final height of 2.25", and a drain height of 2.25-3/4 = 1.5".

With that being said, you can see I'm 0.5" over the min thickness. That's not a big deal, except this is my first time with mud, and I didn't want to have too much to deal with (multiple mud buckets) during the install. For a first timer, should I just go for it with the 1.5" drain height, or should I possible increase the slope and use a lower drain height? The Mapei site says I'd need about 9 bags of 4:1 mix, or about 450lbs, so I'm a bit concerned I can't moved fast enough before it dries with that much.

BIGPHIL 04-26-2021 10:08 AM

Cliff,

The site has a nice mud bed calculator here

Instructions here

I wasn't braining and didn't notice your floor was not it. The corner piece should have gone in after the mud bed and floor were waterproofed. You'll likely need to add another piece there when you Kerdi band the wall to floor junction.

Shaklee3 04-26-2021 10:39 AM

Hi Phil, I *only* put in the corner piece on top of the curb. I did not put in the bottom curb corner piece yet, because as you said, that goes in after the mud bed/membrane is down.

By the way, it seems I cannot use the calculator as it is for my situation, because the drain height only goes to 1.25", and I had planned it at 1.5". I must have had an error before, because I plugged my numbers into mapei's calculator: https://www.mapei.com/us/en-us/produ...repair-mortars and with an average height of 1.875, that's 6 bags instead, which roughly agrees with the JB calculator. Also, I have that triangular bench in there that cuts off a little bit as well, so do you think 6 bags is manageable for a newbie?

BIGPHIL 04-26-2021 12:53 PM

You should be able to handle it. A helper would be nice so they could mix another batch while your working on the first couple of buckets. The best water ratio for that 4-to-1 has been said to be 2q 8oz (2.25q)...not the minimum 3q as recommend on the bag.

Shaklee3 04-29-2021 08:40 PM

Mapesil
 
Hi everyone, I didn't know if I should make a new topic about this since it's a good searchable topic that others googling might want to know. I've settled on using Flexcolor CQ in the shower, and I was looking for the matching caulk. Mapei has two products: Mapesil T and Mapesil T Plus. These products look extremely similar with the only different I could find being that the plus has extra adhesion. Does anyone recommend one over the other for a shower application? If this would be a better general question I can make a new topic. Thanks!

cx 04-29-2021 09:53 PM

If you'll download the manufacturer's TDS for each product perhaps you'll find some difference. Only difference I could find was that the "plus" product has a shorter shelf life. I couldn't otherwise tell they weren't the same product.

You might wanna call MAPEI's technical services line and ask them the difference. 800-992-6273

There might also be a difference in price, but I know nothing at all about that.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Shaklee3 04-29-2021 10:34 PM

Thanks cx, I'll give them a call tomorrow. The main reason I was asking is because my local big box only has the plus in the particular color that I'm looking for. And oddly enough, the plus is less expensive than the regular.

Shaklee3 04-30-2021 08:54 AM

I called Mapei and the response was that "they're really the same thing. The Plus is just geared towards Lowes". So I have no idea why there are two products (and in fact, Lowes carries both), but there's your answer if anyone is looking at this. :bonk:

Shaklee3 05-02-2021 07:27 PM

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Finished the mud bed. Was kind of fun in the end. Got about a 3/8"/ft pitch to longest point. Finished the day by misting it and covering with plastic.

Shaklee3 05-10-2021 09:59 AM

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Hi everyone, I'm doing the 24h leak test now, and watching it like a hawk. It's been in there about 2 hours now, and the line hasn't noticeably changed. However, I do notice wicking up the walls, which I'm assuming will contribute somewhat to water loss.

Is there a general rule of thumb of how much might be wicked up the side and cause the level to drop? I searched old threads and saw wicking is common, but I didn't see any concern over the water level changing because of it.

Shaklee3 05-11-2021 07:56 AM

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For anyone reading this, the wicking did not affect the line at all. My flood test successfully passed after 24h with no noticeable drop in water!

Shaklee3 05-11-2021 03:55 PM

Another update, and I apologize for all the posts. I cut the quartz curb topper to the proper size and it's ready to go on now that the water test is over. However, after calling 5 different glass companies in the San Diego area, NONE of them said they could install the glass without drilling into the curb. I've read as many posts on this as I can on these forums, and the general rule is that while it can be done, it can be very difficult to find someone that will do it.

For those that had the glass installed with the hole + silicon, has anyone lived to regret it?

ss3964spd 05-12-2021 07:15 AM

How thick is the quartz, Cliff?

While they will want to drill into the quartz to install the brackets, they don't need to drill all the way through it. If the quartz is, say 1" thick they could drill their hole only 3/4" deep. They'd then cut the screw to 3/4", fill the hole with epoxy, set the bracket in place, insert the screw, install the glass. Once the epoxy sets the bracket isn't going anywhere.

Shaklee3 05-12-2021 08:23 AM

It's 3/4" thick. I called about 15 total places last night and I did find one that said they don't have to drill into the curb. I'll keep you updated!

Shaklee3 07-23-2021 10:37 AM

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Just a quick updated on this one. I finished tiling a while ago. I took Davy's recommendation and used Prism on the shower walls and floors instead of FlexColor CQ as I did on the bathroom floor. I really like that grout. Consistent color all around, and was fairly easy to work with.

Next, I was mostly waiting for the glass guys to finish. If you recall earlier in the thread, I couldn't find anyone to NOT puncture the curb doing glass, so I decided to just roll the dice and get it done.

I chose installers that were at the higher price range thinking they would do a better job. Believe it or not, the first time they installed the glass it was a full 1" out of plumb from top to bottom! You can see in the picture how bad it looked with the laser level. The tile grout lines are in a perfectly-straight line, for what it's worth. So they had to remove all the glass and start over, which meant not only did I have to repair all the Kerdi, but now there were holes in the curb and pony wall. The promised to reuse the same holes the second time, but that did not happen and they drilled new holes that are underneath the clamps, probably thinking I wouldn't notice. Anyways, that whole process was awful, and even after the second round, the door is still bowed about 1/4" from top to bottom like C shape. Fixing that would again request taking clamps out, which I just don't want to do.

Anyways, lesson learned, I guess? I'm going to apply as much clear sealer around those clamps as possible, but I know it'll never be perfect.


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