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thedayrock 04-11-2019 07:36 AM

Replace Jacuzzi Tub with Shower
I have pulled out our old jacuzzi style tub (4’x3’) and plan on building a shower using the Kirdi Shower Kits.

This is in a concrete slab and the concrete under the tub was cut down 1” on one side to 2.5” on the drain side.

I know I need to level that area with the rest of the floor before installing a shower pan but wanted to get feedback from everyone.

Should I use concrete mix to fill in or self leveler which would be more pricey?

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cx 04-11-2019 07:48 AM

Welcome, Derek. :)

I'd recommend you simply build your sloped shower pan using deck mud directly over what you've got there. Eliminate the foam tray all together, get a better shower floor, and save some dinero in the process.

You plan to center the drain in the shower floor, yes?

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-11-2019 08:18 AM

I was hoping to use the bath conversion drain shower pan from Kirdi. To move would require cutting the concrete to re-pipe.


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cx 04-11-2019 08:35 AM

Cutting a little concrete is a common part of such remodel work, Derek, and not a big deal. It's not required, but you'll be very happy you did it come time to tile that shower floor.

But whether you move the drain or leave it in place, I still recommend you eliminate the foam tray and make a deck mud floor for your shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-11-2019 02:50 PM

I’ve been trying to talk myself into building a mud pan but keep talking myself out of it. I’ve helped with a couple pans but never did them myself.

I like the Kirdi drain and waterproofing. Is there any downside to doing mud pan and then Kirdi waterproof after?

Also, I would like to use Kirdi board for the walls. Would I install those first to allow some expansion between mud and wall?

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cx 04-11-2019 06:02 PM

1. No downside at all to that. Only way I've ever done them.

2. I would install wallboard before installing your mud floor. In fact, I personally complete the tiling of the ceiling and walls, except for the bottom row, and even grout them before installing the bonding flange drain or mud floor. One of the big advantages to the direct bonded waterproofing membrane system in my view.

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-12-2019 05:11 AM

Ok, you’ve convinced me to do this the right way and relocate drain to center and complete a mud shower pan. I do have a couple more questions...

I have the old tub drain which has a p-trap below. Do I need to remove old p-trap and install new p-trap below centered drain location rather than just straight line pipe to existing location?

Also, to cut concrete, I have 4” angle grinder and porter cable circular saw. I see conflicting instructions on best way to cut through slab.

Any suggestions? Here is my existing drain line...


cx 04-13-2019 03:21 PM

First thing you wanna do is verify that you do not have a post-tensioned slab. You can still move the drain if you do have such a slab, but it requires a little more care in the demolition work.

For jobs that size you can get by just fine with a cheap 7 1/4" diamond blade for your circular saw and a rotary hammer with a chisel bit and maybe a 3/4" drill bit.

I like to score the area to be removed and that's where your saw comes into play. Dusty as hell, that, so you'll wanna be prepared for dust containment in the work area as well as having the appropriate personal protection equipment - eye protection, dust mask, gloves, etc.

I generally then use my rotary hammer to drill holes at least in all the corners of the concrete to be removed, but you can do without that if necessary. I'll also commonly drill more holes along the cut lines on accounta it makes it easier to chip out the concrete. Then you use the hammer function with the chisel bit to chip out the concrete. Doesn't need to be a pretty cut. In fact, come time to patch the holes it's actually better to have very rough edges.

May sound complicated, but it's really not. Mostly just a little brute force work.

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-14-2019 09:05 AM

Ok I’ve begun the work. Cut lines with saw and cut a decent channel with the circular saw. Not I am taking the hammer drill to drill down and I am going all the way down in the bit and not hitting dirt. That means the spot I need is a solid 8”-10” of concrete:



Do I keep working it or just run a pipe through channel less than 12” and use existing p-trap?

I also drilled down in the plumbers box and found that it is thicker than the drill bit as well.

makethatkerdistick 04-14-2019 09:19 AM

Might be a bit late now, but if you selected a linear drain you could keep your current drain location. It would also make your mud bed construction easier by having only one plane. If you want the center drain, then yes, you need to move the location.
How old is your trap? If older and/or made from metal (cast iron/copper), I'd elect to replace for sure. If plastic, it might be ok. If you move the drain location, you'll install a new trap under the drain anyway.

You might have to use a bigger concrete saw (worm-gear preferably) or a rotary hammer. Your current setup looks like it'll be painful to execute properly (lots of work, little progress). I'd buy or rent something like a mid-sized Boschhammer. It'll come in handy with other concrete work in the future if you buy it.

thedayrock 04-14-2019 10:42 AM

I am about 30” from edge of house. Would that be footing territory?

If I rent something what would you recommend? Would prefer to keep dust to minimum.

cx 04-14-2019 10:54 AM

1 Attachment(s)
No, that should not be footing territory, Derek. Not sure why you'd be seeing that much concrete there.

The concrete at the bottom of that leave-out hole should be relatively thin. Frequently those holes have no concrete at the bottom at all.

A reasonable sized rotary hammer should be all you need for your application. Here's a photo of my tools for when I have a serious amount of concrete demo at hand, but you don't really need the large saw nor the pneumatic jackhammer. That rotary hammer you see there should handle your work and a similar tool should be available for rent locally.

Attachment 208041

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-14-2019 10:57 AM

Makita Roto Hammer 2”?

cx 04-14-2019 12:12 PM

I think mine is listed as a 1 9/16ths" tool, Derek. SDS Max drive. Like this. And that's a really nice price from CPO if you really wanna own one. I've had very good results with their reconditioned tools.

If you're renting, you needn't really care if it accepts Splined or SDS Max bits if you're renting bits from the same source, so long as it's the right size tool and right size bits.

And the brand matters only if you are buying or buying bits, but I prefer the Makita, but I know Milwaukee and Bosch make a similar tool as do some other manufacturers.

My opinion; worth price charged.

thedayrock 04-14-2019 01:20 PM

Replace Jacuzzi Tub with Shower
Rented a tool. Why is there tar around existing drain under plumpest box?


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