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-   -   Denshield Questions (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5517)

sparkey 03-11-2003 02:31 PM

Denshield Questions
Okay, Thanks for the help in the past I've laid about 200 sq ft of floor tile and now I am getting into the bathroom. When I had the house drywalled I ask them to put denshield in not having all the info from this site at that time they installed it, but, they put it in just like drywall! Regular black screws and they didn't overlap the tub flange they just butted it to the edge and then filled in the 2" gap with drywall mud. They also taped the edges that joint to the wall with mud. Sorry for the long story I just want to tile and not worry about problems 2 years down the road. What should I do? Should I just tear it out and put durock up? Or can I salvage this? It seems form reading the manf. Info it should be nailed up with galvanized nails and I don't think the bottom should be filled in with mud?

Thanks in advance,

Bill Vincent 03-11-2003 02:57 PM

Although it wasn't the way to go, I don't see any real problem. About the only thing I would redo is to lay self adhesive mesh tape over the paper tape on the joints, or if this creates too much of a rise, then rip out the paper tape, and THEN mesh tape. Other than that, you should be okay with the rest. I'd just make sure that your layout works out to as close to a full tile at the tub as possible, so there's plenty of denshield to stick it to. One question-- you got a 2" flange on that tub????? Normally, it's only about 3/4" at most!

sparkey 03-11-2003 03:19 PM

Actually, it is pretty close to that I might have embellished a little bit. It maybe be closer to 1" or 1 1/2". I will have to measure it tonight. Thanks for your idea's. Are you talking about putting mesh tape over the densheild to greenboard joint? Also I forgot to ask in my first post what notch trowel should I use for 8"x10" wall tile?


Bill Vincent 03-11-2003 03:47 PM

No need to measure-- just make sure that most of the bottom tile is on the denshield. As for the tile, a 1/4"x1/4" square notch would be fine with thinset. As for the mesh tape, I meant putting it over EVERY joint involving the denshield.

Bud Cline 03-11-2003 07:54 PM

If paper tape and regular drywall joint compound was used I'd say it should all go away. Wet it a little and scrape it off. When you do this you'll see why I say to get rid of it. Re-tape with the proper tape and thinset.

The gap at the bottom should be cleaned out also. The gap won't hurt anything and you can tile past the gap then caulk the tub/wall juncture.

If it were me the Denshield would go to the dumpster also but I ain't gettin' into THAT arguement again so use it if you want to.

Rob Z 03-11-2003 08:13 PM

Hi Dan

I would cover the Denshield, paper tape, drywall mud, etc with either a waterproofing liquid membrane or a sheet membrane and proceed with tiling. You could use laticrete Floor and Wall Watertight, Bonsal WP6000, Summitville S9000, or many other brands of liquid waterproofing products. For sheet membranes, Noble TS and Schluter Kerdi are good choices.

Bill Vincent 03-12-2003 09:21 AM

I think we may be getting carried away here. Whether or not any of us like or dislike denshield, it IS approved for use in wet areas. the only real question is about the drywall compound.

Sparky-- Bud's actually right. If it's going to be done the right way, it ought to come out of there, and refilled with thinset, if anything at all, and the paper tape and compound should come off and mesh tape go back up. Other than that, you should be fine to tile.

K_Tile 03-12-2003 04:02 PM

I agree with Rob and Bill.
Denshield can be used in wet areas not the drywall mud. Drywall can be used in wet areas if covered w/ a 100% waterproof membrane. You are half way there. I would just use a liquid waterproofing membrane and cover the screw holes and the seams. The concern is the drywall compound and water. If you cover all the compound areas w/ the waterproofing now more worries. This would be alot easier than tearing it down and starting over.

sparkey 03-12-2003 05:41 PM

Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies and insight! I don't know if I explained the joint with the green board right... I think that the actual joint is outside of the wet zone but the mud is tapered into the wet area I didn't make it out there yesterday but I will be out there tonight and I will measure and let you know where the seams lie. General consensus seems to say pull out the mud by the rim of the tub which makes sense. The other thing that Rob Z mentioned is waterproofing the denshield. I have read some of the archives so I have seen some of the controversy. ;) Would I really be best served if I demo'd it and put something else in? :confused: Also do I need to do anything regarding the drywall screws? Do I waterproof the screws/ is this possible? Thanks again, I/we(loml) just want to move in soon! This has been a long process. Thanks


John Bridge 03-12-2003 06:06 PM


Since you have read back, you know Denshield isn't one of my favorite products, but since it's there, I think it would be easier to waterproof it than to tear it out. I think they do the screw holes with silicone? Read the directions. Any drywall mud inside the shower should be either waterproofed or removed.

Bud Cline 03-12-2003 06:23 PM

If you are going to waterproof (liquid membrane) then the srews won't be an issue. The need to waterproof (spend the money) is questionable in my thinking. If Denshield is rated for the application then go for it. Remove the joint compound and re-do the joints with thinset, this is all that should be necessary.

I'm like John...I'm tired of argueing the Denshield controversy.:)

madmax 03-12-2003 06:43 PM

I dont see any problem that can't be fixed.

1. The backerboard is not supposed to cover the lip of the tub.
2. The joint compound can be removed. Just spray it down with water and then scrape it once it gets soft.

sparkey 03-15-2003 12:40 AM

Allrighty!! Well I got into it tonight and it looks like I will be okay. the denshield is overlapped the tub edge by about 3 inches in both directions so I was able to scrap the mud away to my tile border line. I will seal the screw holes with silicone and start putting up tile.

One last question for now... should I put a ledger board to start from ie: one row up from the bottom or should I just use something to hold the tile up 1/4" from the tub and do the whole thing at one time? I am using a 8"x10" tile.

You guys are great thanks for all the advice!!!!!!

Jason_Butler 03-15-2003 06:52 AM

I often use a ledger board since the edges of the tub are not level.

Find the "low point" of the tub rim and make sure you can use a full tile in that area. This will require some cutting in the "higher" spots but in sure beats having a tile that is too short when you set the final row


Bill Vincent 03-15-2003 07:04 AM

Before automatically starting full tile at the low point, you might want to check and see what you will end up with at the ceiling. Also, it might be easier, IF you work out to a good piece, to start off taking an inch of at the low point-- it's alot easier than having to nip 1/16" or 1/8" as you go around the tub.

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