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-   -   Scott's Master Bath Remodel (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=118206)

Willy 11-26-2015 09:34 AM

Scott's Master Bath Remodel
 
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Hey there, hope everyone is having a great holiday....

I'm at the beginning of redoing my master bath. And I have a few questions regarding sistering joists. I have 2x10's (Doug Fir I believe) unsupported 13.5'. With that, the Deflecto calculator says I am good for ceramic tile. I am not sure what I am going to be using at this point so I want to make it the best I can. On top of the structure I will have 3/4" and 1/2" plywood followed by Ditra. I'll attach a pic so you can see what I am working with.

1. When sistering my 2x10's is it best to use 2x10 material or can I go down to say 2x6 or 2x8? I plan on sistering the full 13.5'

2. When I leave the 1/8" gap along the edge and between sheets of the subfloor can I silicone that to seal the room off from the crawlspace? It may be a while before tile gets put down.

Thanks, and again I hope everyone is having a great Holiday!

cx 11-26-2015 02:27 PM

Depends upon your goal, Scott, and what you've got there. I can't tell what joist spacing you've got, but it appears some of your joists are already doubled. From what little we can see in the photo, your joists appear to be of very good grade and if you're correct about the species, you've likely got a very good start there.

1. If your goal is L/720 for a natural stone installation, you'd need to sister the single joists with full 2x10 joists.

2. You really want a good quarter-inch gap around the perimeter of your subflooring. Filling the gaps with some sort of flexible sealant is fine, but I'd not use silicone. A cheap painter's caulk would be more than adequate. And if you're installing a second layer of plywood subflooring, you shouldn't need to fill any of the gaps between panels.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Willy 11-26-2015 03:04 PM

I appreciate the reply CX.
Full 2x10's it is, with painter's caulk sealing the first layer perimeter.
The near side of the pic will be the laundry room. The bathroom will start this side of the joists that have a slight gap between them. I'll add some more pics and get joist spacing and species later this evening..

Hope you had a good holiday, thanks again!

Willy 11-26-2015 07:55 PM

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I could only find one stamp on the joists. And the joists are at most 16 o.c.
I've added some other pics to show what I have going on.
The pink tile is horrible, and it was everywhere.

could someone spin the pics around for me? The viewed correctly on my computer...:scratch:

Willy 11-26-2015 08:00 PM

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Here's another pic of the stamp..Hemlock...

cx 11-26-2015 08:29 PM

Not sure I've ever seen a Construction grade on anything as large as 2x10 material. But I ain't yet seen it all.

Not at all sure what you've got there, but it certainly looks like good material. Sistering up those two single joists should give you a very sound floor, think I.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Willy 11-27-2015 07:21 AM

It's a bit of a mess right now but, what the one picture shows is the laundry room. That wall is coming this way about 40" to make room for a new shower. At that point the dryer will be on the left with the washer on the right. In the other pic, behind the toilet is the same wall. That gives me a shower that will be roughly 39" x 7'. The toilet will go to the right of the door where the tub is with a 60" vanity on the left. It will be tight but it will be much better than what I have now.

Thanks again

Houston Remodeler 11-27-2015 08:18 AM

A shower that long will give you either plenty of room to drip dry and towel off, set the wheelchair out of the way, or have room for other people.

If you don't need any of those features, will shortening the shower to 6 or 5.5 feet get you more usable space outside the shower ?

Willy 11-27-2015 10:57 AM

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Paul,
Here is the basic idea I had for the layout...My measurements aren't exact as I'm not at home but they are very close. I am open for suggestions, but with such a tight space there just isn't much room. Sorry for the 3rd grader sketch

Thanks for looking

Houston Remodeler 11-27-2015 11:49 AM

Plenty of room to go curbless and door less if you nix the bench.

FWIW most benches are only 12 inches deep as people don't sit all the way back, but instead on the edge (unlike a chair) unless its a steam shower and you're spending some time in there.

Kman 11-27-2015 02:12 PM

I make my benches a minimum of 14" deep, unless the customer wants something different.

The Better Benches are obviously less than that, except for the biggest of them.

Willy 11-27-2015 03:07 PM

As I was drawing that out I was thinking doorless for the shower. I am also thinking about a linear drain. How does one go about keeping all the floors the same height and get the slope in the shower with no curb? I know it can be done, I just can't wrap my head around it...

Houston Remodeler 11-27-2015 03:19 PM

As drawn the area to the right (at the bench) is flat with the main bath floor.

As the floor slopes down to the drain (far left) a vertical wedge opens on the (as drawn) bottom of the shower but the pony wall hides the change in elevation from one side to the other. The pony wall would have to be longer.

Make sense ? :crazy: or did that make things worse ? :dunce:

Willy 11-27-2015 03:26 PM

Makes sense, thanks!

Willy 11-27-2015 05:03 PM

I thought it made sense but the more I thought about it the more I confused myself.

I guess I am confused as to how I would get the slope to the drain from the flat portion of the floor?

Would I stop the main floor at the shower and then set the shower subfloor inside the joist bays so that the top of my two sheets of plywood is flush with the top of the floor joists?

How much longer do you think the pony wall would need to be to do this?

And now that I am home, the shower will be 88.5" wide x 39.5"


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