Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php)
-   Tile Forum/Advice Board (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1)
-   -   Glass slide in stove, backsplash design question- to notch or not to notch? (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=130539)

mrgedman 02-10-2021 03:12 PM

Glass slide in stove, backsplash design question- to notch or not to notch?
2 Attachment(s)

I'm planning our kitchen backsplash. We have one of the newer glass slide in stoves, with a completely flat top. I've done a good amount of backsplashes in the past with more 'traditional' stoves- were the knobs are on a bumped out control panel on the back of the stove, above the cook surface. Also, the wall run is very long (~14 feet), so the slight notching/bottoms not lining up would be less noticeable/bothersome than a smaller run.

Anyhow, I think the back of these stoves typically terminate into a narrow piece of countertop, rather than the wall. I did our concrete countertops, and did not think to include a narrow portion in the back. FWIW, I really didn't want to bump out the stove much at all- the kitchen is fairly tight as is.

3x6 brick set subway, and I'm curious what you smart fellows would do to set it around the stove. Options, pictures, and sketch below-

1. Notch and rip around 1/4" off the bottom of the first course. I don't think this would look very good, and even though I have a pretty nice tile saw, it does not produce great edges on this tile. I tend to dress them with a diamond stone or sandpaper if they will be visible.

2. Set the tiles off the range plane and add a small stick of trim on the countertops to hide the ~1/4" gap from the glass thickness of the range. The stick would likely be about 3/8" wide by 5/16" tall. This is a little fussy, and as a carpenter, I'm always trying to solve problems with wood. I do have a full cabinet shop on our property, and the trim would not take me long to fabricate. Mixing a ton of different materials is not always a good look, though. Also, the trim would likely get dinged up a lot from stuff sliding into it. It may also draw attention to a not perfectly flat countertop (cast in place).

3. The obvious 'traditional' - pull the stove out and bridge the countertops with a temporary scrap of wood, and tile straight across just as I have done for a dozen customers. Slide the stove into the tile. Downsides are gaps at the tile/stove transition, and the 'bad reveal' also exists from option #1.

I can't think of other options. I'm leaning towards option 2- though it seems fussy, and may make things worse.

The notch and rip may be better, as it is a pretty small fraction of a tile.

Its subjective I know, but you guys know what looks weird and what doesn't better than I do. Thanks very much fellas!

Tool Guy - Kg 02-10-2021 10:53 PM

Hi, Ged.

I don’t like the options where a movable horizontal stove top meets the vertical wall. Because that joint is movable, you can’t caulk it. It will always be a joint with a crack in it to collect dirt.

I’d make a correction to the countertop to allow the stove to be installed in the manner that it was designed. I realize you said space was tight, but we are only talking about an inch here. I would add a cleat to the wall to allow a narrow strip of Corian, granite, or quartz to be installed on it to join the two countertops. Visit your local slab countertop shop and purchase a 1.5”x30” (or whatever the exact size is) of that material and caulk it into place with matching silicone or colored Akemi epoxy. While that material won’t match perfectly, I think it’s less noticeable than the other methods you’ve described.


mrgedman 02-11-2021 12:23 AM

I disagree in that the stove is moveable. I intend to lightly silicone it to the counter on the sides to prevent the food crusties from getting in there.

Also, I think people tend to install them with a bit of countertop on the back, but I don’t think it is required. In my mind it just creat a nice small valley for gunk to build up.

Thanks for the feedback.

speed51133 02-11-2021 09:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I just went through this. I removed my rangetop and tiled behind it, then slid the rangetop against the tile, screwed it down by taking it apart and screwing the frame to the cabinet, and caulked between the rangetop and the tile and countertop.

Of course, my original rangetop was pressed against the wall with no counter strip behind it. I also do not have a cooktop. It is a rangetop, think a regular slide in range, but just the burners, no oven. See below (not mine, just an exact representation.)

There is a company that sells trim kits for your exact issue as well. Custom made and very reasonable pricing.

Carbidetooth 02-11-2021 11:19 AM

Ged, were it me I imagine I'd not push range against wall. Notching tile would be my last resort as it gives Murphy the upper hand should the range need to be replaced. Indeed, it's at least part of the reason we don't see drop in ranges of yesteryear. I can't tell you how many cabinets/countertops I've modified to fit replacement appliances, so perhaps I'm gun-shy. Does the range manufacturer require clearances there? Their installation instructions typically mention such things.

Have you actually tried it? Sometimes there's stuff hanging off the back of range that would prevent it. If so, when pushed back, does it expose adjacent cabinetry in a weird way at the front vertical surface?

I think I'd approach with the bridge idea. Looks like countertops would be hard thing to match so I'd look for durable contrasting insert of some kind. Maybe brake a u shaped piece of stainless, backed up by lumber and flushed with surrounding countertop. Install backsplash as usual.

And FWIW, silicone caulk on the countertop to range junction would be entirely out of bounds for me. I'll admit prejudice, though.

speed51133 02-11-2021 01:46 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I think the caulk looks great. MUCH better than years of crap stuck in the gap.

Carbidetooth 02-11-2021 07:04 PM

To each their own, I guess.

Original poster was talking glass top slide in range, not drop in stainless cooktop. Kinda two different animals, eh?

Tool Guy - Kg 02-11-2021 10:04 PM

Mike, yours isn't a free-standing unit like Ged's is. I'm with Carbidetooth on this.

I like Carbidetooth's idea to bend up a piece of stainless for the bridge in the back.

Ged, we're only sharing our experiences with you. Do proceed as you feel best. It's your house.


mrgedman 02-13-2021 03:50 PM

Hey fellas!

Thanks very much for all the ideas and problem solving on this-

Bubba & Peter,

I still maintain that while it is 'moveable', it is not 'uncaulkable'. I really like the silicone on the side of Mike's range. I don't like crusties, and would rather look at a small bit of silicone smear. If done very slowly and carefully, It can be next to invisible,.


The manufacturer does require a 1" min offset from the wall. I'm glad I checked. Thank you. Your suggestion of stainless bendy is my favorite option. I'm not going to find and fabricate it though- I do think it is the best option, but it would be a little extra effort and would somewhat clash with everything else. I like the way it would look, but I doubt my wife would. My 'solution' below- likely won't look perfect.. but I can always try the stainless in the future...


The slide in range in the first pic looks perfect. You have a slight advantage over me in that there is a deliberate piece of stainless steel vent/trim/whatever on the back to make the reveal bigger- more deliberate. My reveal will be so small that either the notch or the full course slide in would look a little strange.

All that said, I'm going to go with what I think is the best of all worlds. I'm going to put a 1"+ ply filler on the back (manufacturers minimum). The lip on the stove and the build up of the tile should leave a perfect 1/6" to 1/4" valley... to be filled with some sort of caulk/silicone. Can likely tweak the valley width to what I feel is 'best' by sliding the range in and out.

If it works out the way it does in my mind, it should look pretty good, the ply won't need to be painted or treated in any way (assuming an opaque caulk), and If I hate it, I can play with it more in the future. I do 98% of the cooking in our household (as well as 99.9% of the remodeling/buildy work), so I feel like I should get the final say.

Again, thanks very much guys. Its a pretty trivial design bit I admit, but I think there may be some useful discussion here for other novice tile folk out there. I'll post finish pics.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:58 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC