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-   -   Notching 2x10 I'm lost (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=14616)

Jen Duy 08-06-2004 07:44 PM

Notching 2x10 I'm lost

I'm confused. I'm starting my first tile, shower pan, and bathroom remodel attempt. I'm learning about all the steps but am lost on the 2x10's and notching them in. My shower is framed and I know I need 2x10s to brace the liner. Do I cut the 2x4s some how to put in the 2x10s or have a bunch of 2x10 pieces that go inbetween all the 2x4s? I have no idea how this works. Also a vapor barrier is needed before the concrete backerboard, right? And does that go in after the pan is built and bring it down right to the pan. Thanks for any help you can offer me. Jen

davem 08-06-2004 07:51 PM

Hi Jen. Click the Liberry link above and look for the shower thread. Way at the bottom you'll find a nice writeup on notches. You'll notch the bottom of your vertical studs to make space for the liner, and then fit short pieces of 2x10 between the vertical studs. The front of the 2x10s will be flush with the back of the notches. Easier to see than to say. :)

MHI 08-06-2004 07:53 PM

Hi Jen,

You would notch the 2x4's about a 1/4 inch, just so the pan liner material is recessed and not sitting on the surface. You want the cbu's to be flat and not bulge out at the bottom causing the tile to look bad. Notch the 2x4's first and then install 2x10 blocking all the way around the shower for pan liner support. You can set the blocking in 1/4 inch to line up with the notched 2x4's.

Poly moisture barrier goes up before cbu's and runs down over the pan liner, so it water gets behind the tile and cbu's it will go over the liner and down the drain. :)

Here is where a picture would help, but I haven't got any of construction in process, just final pictures.

Jen Duy 08-06-2004 08:16 PM

Thanks Matt and Dave for the info. I didn't see that in the Liberry at the bottom there. You use a chisel, that's seems really hard and a lot of work. :uhh: So one more question for now, Matt you said the vapor barrier goes down to the liner does that mean you do the preslope first then put the liner down and then the vapor barrier down the walls onto the liner and then the final mud? Did I get that right? Thanks for all your knowledge. Jen

Davy 08-06-2004 08:45 PM

You've got it right Jen. :)

MHI 08-06-2004 08:46 PM


It's not that hard to notch with a chisel while the 2x4's are installed, you just have to rough it out. Another option is to shim the walls with 1/4 inch thick strips of wood, like lattice, after you install the pan liner. The shimming method only works on walls that end in the shower, not on walls that would continue out and have to be flush with drywall.

You would do the preslope first, then install the pan liner. After leak test (when you plug the drain and fill with water over night), you install the vapor barrier (6 mil. poly) on the studs overlapping the pan liner. Next is the cbu's over the poly vapor barrier, and down over the pan liner. Leave a 1/4 inch space between the cbu and the pan liner, you can use a wood shim to hold it up when you screw the board (be careful not to screw into the liner at the bottom of the cbu's. After the cbu's are installed, you can do the final mud bed. :)

Jen Duy 08-07-2004 05:13 AM

Hi Guys,
Thanks so much. You're instructions make it seem easy. My shower walls do have to extend onto other walls so I'll try the notching. Thanks for your time. Jen

tileguytodd 08-07-2004 06:05 AM

Jen dont kid yourself.we make it seem easy but this is work and the reason we get paid well to do it.You can do it ,just dont try to pace yourself like a Pro.It took us years of abusing ourselves to get to where we just look at it as an everyday thing and sometimes we make things sound easier than they actually are for the uninitiated.Take your time,grit your teeth and dig in.If you are half as tenacious as my wife you'll whip that shower sure ;)

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