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arnav 09-28-2020 11:51 AM

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So... I took the last two weeks off from work to try and make a dent in this project. With your help, here is the progress made during these two weeks. It was quite hectic so I didn't have a chance to post as I was going along.


The very first thing that I did was address the severed chord. I inserted 6.5' timbor treated 2 x 4. I propped it up from the diagonal chord and then glued and nailed it.
The floor feels so much better after this and no creaking.

arnav 09-28-2020 12:03 PM

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I used water putty to repair any termite surface damage to the first subfloor layer.
Sanded down as necessary when dry.

arnav 09-28-2020 12:14 PM

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Here is the second sub-floor layer before and after. I took my time to get the correct 1/4" perimeter gaps and 1/8" between the sheets. I had to account for the various supply, drainage, and electricity lines. Both subfloors layers were treated with timbor and I sprinkled the powder between the two layers as well for a good measure.
Unlike the original subfloor, the first layer is screwed to the trusses and the second layer is only screwed to the first layer and not penetrating any trusses.

arnav 09-28-2020 12:28 PM

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Here are the furring strips. Ramset'd in the horizontal mortar joints + glued. Notched for the tub 1/4". I had to do quite a bit of shimming to account for blocks that were not quite level. I sanded down any high points. There is a concrete beam in the upper left corner that protrudes 1/4" out, so I used ply for it which brings it level to the 5/4" strips.
Notice how I realized after two nails on the left hand side that they will interfere with the notch for the tub so I cut these two off :).
Not shown: I also added tapcons at the very top and bottom where the strip ends in a middle of a block where you can't ramset.

arnav 09-28-2020 12:37 PM

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All insulated. Its amazing the difference that it makes. So much heat was radiating from that wall (pointing directly to the east).

arnav 09-28-2020 12:51 PM

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The entire sole plate and studs on the left hand side were replaced with 20 gauge ones.
An opening for the niche was prepared. I found this link helpful: https://www.scafco.com/wp-content/up...l_Drawings.pdf.
I ended up having to do the niche twice. First I measured from the bottom of the tub to get it in between 4 tiles. However, I realized that since I am tiling all the way to the ceiling, and the cut tile will be all the way by the tub, I really need to measure from the ceiling...

arnav 09-28-2020 01:01 PM

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The right hand side studs were more time consuming given everything that goes through them. I replaced 2/3 of the sole plate. Replaced the 3 studs that will be under the CBU and repaired one that's under drywall.

arnav 09-28-2020 01:11 PM

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And finally the tub/shower valve. The only iffy part was having to sweat a new fitting extremely close to the washing machine fitting/Tee. I first tried to sweat it with the old fitting wrapped in a wet rug, but it sucked all the heat and i was going nowhere so had to remove it.

That's it. Hats off to all the pros that do it day in - day out. After two weeks I am broken... :)

cx 09-28-2020 02:06 PM

I'd wanna cap that tub spout and pressurize the system before I put away my torch, Dan.

arnav 09-28-2020 03:20 PM

Yes, I did that. I followed the Delta instructions.
1. I capped both ends
2. I inserted the tiny filter, and the plug to prevent cross flow.
3. Checked for leaks while under pressure.
4. I shut the water again.
5. Removed both caps.
6. Removed the filter and the cross flow plug
7. Inserted the cartridge, and flushed both tub spout and shower spout (by plugging the tub spout with my thumb).

ss3964spd 09-29-2020 07:56 AM

Nice work, Dan.

Question though, is that tub drain in the right place? looks really, really close to the bottom plate.

arnav 09-29-2020 08:31 AM

Thank you very much.

Good catch re the drain.

1. The pipe you see there is still the old drain pipe. It is coming out since it is not in an ideal 90 degrees. I am planning to reroute it. I'll post pics of the new layout when its ready.

2. The previous sole plate was cut and i suspect i will need to do the same. I am holding off on cutting until i do the final drain fitting.

Since I have repaired the severed chord, I may need to glue the drain in place after the tub is in. I don't think I will be able to insert it through the hole after the tub is in place but let's see.

arnav 09-30-2020 10:52 PM

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So the sole plate was not in the way but the chord is. I totally see why the plumber cut it :)
This is what I came up with (yet to be cemented). Because of the location of the truss, it can't be inserted whole from the bottom but I'll try and pre-cement as much as I can.
hopefully what I did make sense and looks right. I am assuming as long as there are no multiple p-trap affect it should be fine.

jadnashua 10-01-2020 12:05 AM

Be very careful when trying to dry fit pvc fittings...by design, until the cement is applied and that melts the plastic, it is nearly impossible to bottom out the pipe in the fitting...so, unless you measure from the bottom of the socket, each fitting will end up being offset from where you think it will end up.

arnav 10-01-2020 06:53 AM

Thanks for the heads up. I noticed and it is a pain. If it does bottom out it is very hard to take out. I wanted to mock something up so you can see the pipes' layout. I mostly measured from the rim of the elbows + 1.5" which seems to be how much each pipe wants to go in the socket x2. Some fittings go in easier than others. I'll cement the elbows first and then measure and cement in place the key pipes (which set the distance between the overflow and the drain for example).

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