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-   -   Is my subfloor good enough? (https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66445)

orangetones 09-16-2008 07:09 PM

Is my subfloor good enough? And a stair nosing/transition question.
 
I am planning on tiling a landing and the entrance area of my house. The entrance is 4x6 feet in area. There are joists 16"OC that are 2x10 (full 2", it's an old house). then there is 1" (or slightly less) by 4 or 5 (haven't measured that) tongue and groove laid diagonally. On top of that there is 1/2" plywood. next a layer of hard linoleum and then a peel and stick tile on that.

I plan to take up the sticky stuff. The lino won't come up (I know from doing my kitchen before). Next I was going to screw down any places that are a little springy. after that is where I need some advice. Some have told me to just put a layer of 1/4" ply down and screw that in, then tile over that. Others say cement board. What do you say?

In the landing area it is 3'x3' and it is framed with 2x4's every 12". There is then the tongue and groove run perpendicular and then a layer of 1/2" ply. Again there is lino and then peel and stick. up will come hte peel and stick, and then can I just use 1/4" ply screwed down, then apply my tiles with some polymer modified thinset? or should we go concrete board?

If we do go with plywood, should it ble glued and screwed?

The tiles are 12x12 porcelain.

Thoughts?

Mike2 09-16-2008 07:20 PM

Hi OT, how about a first name? :)

We'll need to ask a couple questions first.

In the entrance, what is the unsupported span of those joists? With that information, go to the Deflecto tool, see blue bar above, input the requested data and tell us what you get.

For the Landing, are those 2x4's being used as joists? If so, is the span 3-feet?

1/4" plywood makes a terrible substrate for setting tile. 1/4" backer board is good,however. :tup1:

orangetones 09-17-2008 05:55 AM

Span
 
The unsupported span of the entrance is a just a bit longer than 6 feet. The landing is just a bit longer than the 3 feet that it takes up.

I did the calculation on the Deflecto and it ays we are good.

So I am thinking now that I should just go ahead with 1/4 cement board and then tile. (after screwing in and springy areas, if there are any).

Sound good?

BTW my name is Steve.

Thanks.

orangetones 09-17-2008 05:57 AM

Oh... I get L/760 for the landing and L/2417 for the entrance.

Rd Tile 09-17-2008 07:59 AM

Quote:

I plan to take up the sticky stuff. The lino won't come up (I know from doing my kitchen before). Next I was going to screw down any places that are a little springy. after that is where I need some advice. Some have told me to just put a layer of 1/4" ply down and screw that in, then tile over that. Others say cement board. What do you say?
I say you keep working on getting that linoleum up, then you'll be good to go.:)

orangetones 09-17-2008 12:06 PM

Lino...ack....
 
Will there be issues with getting the polymer modified thinset to adhere to the lino (between the 1/4 cement board and lino) even when screwed, considering it is a modified mix?

What is the problem going over old hard lino like that. We are talking 1950's original stuff.

orangetones 09-17-2008 02:13 PM

Thoughts?

orangetones 09-18-2008 05:38 AM

Anyone?

scuttlebuttrp 09-18-2008 06:04 AM

You should attempt to remove that lino.
However; some of that stuff really is indestructible.
Wasn't asbestos great?
So; the flex isn't there to stick the board, it's there to fill in voids so you don't have deflection problems between the board and the floor.
Does anyone have fond memories of lead paint?

bbcamp 09-18-2008 06:35 AM

If what you have is really linoleum, you can set your backerboard and tile over it.

orangetones 09-18-2008 08:01 AM

Nosing??
 
I absuloutely is 1950's lino. It was applied with a black tar like product it looks like. Unless the product has just darkened with age. I am not taking it up then. I will however have to wrestle with the peel and stick tiles (a bigger pain than the vinyl that was glued over the lino in the hallway. The peel and stick is in the landing to the basement.

Does anyone have any great ideas on edge stripping for a stair tread nosing? I was going to use the Rondec Stair for the landing where it will transition with the carpeted stairs.

The carpet comes up around the nose of the top step/landing edge. Can anyone think of a different way to achieve a finished look there? I was thinking about a flat transition piece of metal that would be screwed through the carpet into the nose of the tread. I would leave it up high enough to cover the edge of the tile. I would then probably have to caulk this seam instead of grouting, as there would undoubtedly be some movement there.

Thoughts??

orangetones 09-18-2008 03:08 PM

new thoughts on stair nosing?

Mike2 09-18-2008 03:35 PM

I'd help you if I could but can't picture what this looks like. Some how carpet interfaces with tile at the top step? And you are trying to trim out the carpet? :scratch:

orangetones 09-19-2008 05:59 AM

Pictures
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here are some drawings of what I am talking about. The stairs coming up from the basmeent are carpeted. The carpet was finished to the top edge of the landing shown here. I am tiling the landing. I need to make the transition in a way to cover the top edge of the carpet.

I was thinking of using the Rondec-Stair from Schleuter which is in the second picture. I could also just use l molding and have the tile hand over the edge of the carpet 1/4 inch too, but I think that might not provide enough stregth and the edge of the tile might crack or break.

Do we have any other soultions? I just need to do this on one step and the Rondec is about 40$ for a length of it. Quite a lot for one step in my opinion.

Thougts??

orangetones 09-19-2008 01:10 PM

anyone?


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