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figaro
09-14-2011, 08:32 PM
We are getting ready to start a master bath remodel where we are installing 18" x 18" porcelain tile, 8' high and 10' high on the walls, and inside the shower walls and ceiling.
The look is contemporary and my question is how to treat my corners and edges. I have 2 outside wall corners, and 2 places where tile ends on walls.
Then I have the shower curb, and where shower walls and ceiling meet the outside wall, shower niche and tub deck.
Bullnose is available in 3" x 12". Or I have done the 45 degree bevel corner thing (although I think it's more work) then there is using a profile strip like schluter quadec which I have no experience with (or something else). I'm not sure if I should treat all corners the same, or quadec on outside wall corners and bullnose inside shower, on curb, and tub deck. Just want it to look good and correct. Opinions??
Thanks

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figaro
09-14-2011, 09:23 PM
Why did this get moved from "professionals hangout"?

Tool Guy - Kg
09-14-2011, 09:47 PM
Hi Figaro,

While I didn't move it, I'd guess it got moved to the Tile Advice Forum because it's less suited for the Pro's Hangout and more suited for this forum. But no worries, we have the same pros on this forum answering questions that hang out in the Pro's Hangout. You're not being shorted. :tup2:

Well, if you're looking for contemporary, you're going for sleek-simplistic-minimalistic. And if that's the case, I'd avoid the 3" x 12" bullnoses. They break up the look of the tile with extra grout lines that differ from the 18" square grout lines. And because they are 3" x 12" (instead of matching the 18" long tiles), they'll add even more grout lines and is an extra reason I'd avoid them on a contemporary design.My first choice would be to bullnose the tiles yourself...that is, if the tile body is a very similar color to the glaze of the tile. This is done with a profiling bit (or blade) to give a rough round shape to the edge of the tile, then polished with a series of every smoother diamond grit pads to produce a smooth, rounded, sleek edge. It looks very custom compared to using 3" bullnoses.

My second choice would be to back bevel the corners at 45 degrees. Do take care to avoid overly sharp corners, though. This is accomplished by not cutting the bevel all the way to the edge of the tile, but rather leaving a 1/16" flat area for that corner. Also, polishing pads can be used to dull the corners a bit.

The last choice, in my opinion, is to use metal or plastic profiles. They stand out in many cases. If you find this look attractive, or you find a color that looks great with your tile, go for it.

:)

figaro
09-14-2011, 10:11 PM
Thanks for the reply.
I agree with avoiding the bullnose for the reasons you stated.
The tile is a dark brown color, but wouldn't call it a "through body" tile.
I have read about bullnose profiling before and would like to try it sometime.
But don't have the wheel and don't think this tile is a good candidate.
I did mitered corners on the last shower I did, and thought it turned out good, but thought it was difficult and labor intensive.
That leaves the profile strips, which I have no experience with mostly because I have always avoided them thinking that they look cheap and amaturish (although my questions evidently put me in that category). However, I have seen them used where they look good and have a decorator friend who really likes them. And I agree, they would have to match the tile very well to work.
Would you use the "quadec" on the outside corners? Can you use this stuff inside the shower?
Just curious Tool Guy KG why profile strips would be your last choice??
Thanks for your input!

Tool Guy - Kg
09-14-2011, 11:47 PM
Because I don't like the look in many cases. Yes, you can use them in a shower. Use the profile look that you like. Use Schluter®-QUADEC for a kinda square corner, and Schluter®-RONDEC if you want it rounded. You could use Schluter®-JOLLY for a "flat-strip" look at the corner, but it isn't symmetrical like the other two.

But I'm mention something about the bullnosing option. It takes effort, just like the back mitering. In most cases, it takes even a little more effort. But you could always cut the pieces to their precise size and take them to a fabricator to do the bullnosing for you. Many places charge in the neighborhood of $10-$14. It really varies, so use those numbers roughly.

And about this dark brown tile...what color is the body of the tile?

:)

figaro
09-15-2011, 07:03 PM
Thanks again Tool Guy.
The body of the tile is a light beige color as best as I can describe it. Quite different then the color of the tile. I don't think bullnosing is an option for that reason. But is something I would like to try sometime.
The tile is Mannington Midtown ME4T18. I checked to see if they had bullnose in 3x18" but all they have is 3x12". I stopped at HD on the way home and looked at their Schlutter sample chain. The Rondec might work in the 5/16" version, but while they didn't have all the colors, was discouraged that the one color that I thought might work wasn't even close. And I agree with you that unless the color isn't practically "dead on match", I don't like the way it looks either. I'm going to stop at my local wholesale distributor tomorrow AM, to look at all colors, but I'm not optimistic.
That leaves 12" bullnose, or mitering corners. Bullnose doesn't lend itself to the contemporary design, and I dread the thought of miters, for me time consuming. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted. :)

ceramictec
09-15-2011, 07:06 PM
you do know you can get the Rondec in PVC colors ?

figaro
09-15-2011, 07:41 PM
Thanks for reminding me, maybe that might be an option. :tup2:

figaro
09-18-2011, 06:14 PM
I am attaching 18 x 18 porcelan tile to painted walls as high as 10'. Would versabond be adequate or should I use something more modified? Custom Products or Latirete available to me from local big box stores. Big price difference between Versabond and next step up, almost 3X. Suggestions??
Thanks

figaro
09-18-2011, 06:53 PM
Update: Found a Schlutter Rondec that actually matches pretty good and lends itself to the look we're going for. Thanks for the help.

Davy
09-18-2011, 06:59 PM
Is it regular latex wall paint? The moisture in the thinset tends to go thru the paint and turns the texture wet again. Once it does dry, it always seems to bond fairly well. I trust it on small areas but prolly not on a 10 ft wall. I would sand the wall and wipe it with a wet sponge to try to get down to sheetrock. Versabond sticks really well directly to the paper on the sheetrock.

tileman2000
09-18-2011, 07:02 PM
Hi Figaro,

What part of the house are you installing 18x18's?

You need to rough up the painted surface so the thin-set has something to grab onto.

figaro
09-18-2011, 07:07 PM
Yes, latex painted walls in master bath. Sanding sounds good just didn't know if versabond was good enough to trust especially on 10' walls.

Davy
09-18-2011, 07:27 PM
Yep, it's good enough.

steve26
09-18-2011, 07:35 PM
I tiled over painted concrete walls with a skim coat of TEC super flex, let it dry for a day and set the porcelain tile 12x12" the next day with TEC Sturdy flex. This was 9 years ago and still looks like new.

figaro
09-29-2011, 07:47 PM
I am doing a bathroom where I am using A LOT of Schlutter Rondec and really have little experience with it. A lot of outside corners. I noticed on the Schlutter site they suggest the sequence being to tile a wall first up to a corner, then install the rondec up to the edge of that tile and anchor the "leg" to the other wall with thinset, then tile up to that (hope I read that right). Is that how you guys do it? I would have thought embedding the leg first behind the first wall, then butting up to it coming from the other way.
Which is easier? Also ordered some outside corners but am going to mitre the inside ones. Thanks

ceramictec
09-29-2011, 08:36 PM
its worth buying the inside pieces, saves time and looks better.

I dont know what they are talking about with a "leg".

figaro
09-29-2011, 10:02 PM
Thanks for the reply.

The "leg" being the part that you would thinset to the wall with the geometric design on it? The part you would tuck behind the tile on one side of an outside corner. Don't know how else to explain it.

Yes the inside corners would be nice and I'm sure easier, but I would need 11 of them at $12 a pop (I'm guessing) + freight.

Shaughnn
09-29-2011, 10:58 PM
Hello Figaro,
By setting the first side of a corner without the Rondec, you can be certain that it's flat and plumb without obstructions. It also allows you to make slight adjustments if needed, with the second face.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

figaro
10-01-2011, 08:46 AM
Yes Shaughnn that's what I was asking. I keep going back and forth whether to set the Schlutter first, then tile up to it, then tile up to it again from the other way, or do what you said without the Schlutter and put it up to the edge and fasten the "leg" to the other wall.

Let me describe the "situation" I have. I have to tile the entire wall on the OUTSIDE of the shower. That wall is 10' high and about 6' wide. So I am tiling around the opening to the shower which is about 8' high and 4' wide with a 4" +- curb at the bottom. All seams have to line up going into the shower including ceiling of shower. So given this scenario, would you tile the entire outside wall around the shower opening first, then attach the "leg" of your Schlutter to the shower wall, and but it up to the edge of the tile you just laid?

Or would you leave room behind the tile you just laid on the outside wall to put the "leg" of the Schlutter behing it after the fact.

Or.. would you attach the Schlutter first, either to the outside wall or the inside shower wall, and tile up to it??

Seems difficult to me so looking for the easiest sequence with the least amount of problems. Thanks

figaro
10-02-2011, 08:05 PM
Please don't bump this to my last thread. These are new questions and my last question went unanswered because I think it fell too far down the line.

I wish I had a pic to post, but I'll try and explain. I am tileing a shower where the outside wall of the shower is being tiled also.
The outside wall is about 6' wide, and 10' tall. The opening into the shower is 4' wide and 8' tall with about a 4" curb at the bottom. I have to tile the outside wall, then carry the grout lines around the corners into the shower including the shower ceiling. I am using Schlutter aluminum Rondec for all my outside corners. I am mitering all my corners (there are 10 in all in this shower) because I didn't want to spend the money ($14 +- plus freight ea.) for the inside corners. (There is a niche and another alcove you could sit in, in this approx. 3' x 4' shower, lot's of corners).

I have very little experience with this Rondec, and my question is: how and in what sequence would you apply it in this scenario? I have to start wth the outside wall first because that has to line up with the horizontal lines of another wall already tiled butting into it.

Would you attach Rondec to the outside wall first then tile to it? i.e. picture framing the 4' x 8' opening?

Would you tile around the 4' x 8' shower opening first on the outside wall, then attach the Rondec anchoring leg to the shower walls around the opening?

Would you tile around the opening leaving your mud back far enough to stick the Rondec anchoring leg in behind it after the fact?

Rather complicated (for me at least) and I've been racking my brain on this.
Any advice appreciated.

cx
10-02-2011, 08:20 PM
Figaro, if you think your thread is getting too far down the page without response, just make a post and bump it back to the top for attention. Starting new threads loses the history and what's been previously asked and answered and results in confusion and duplication of effort on the part of our volunteer staff of helpers. And things are always a little slower here on weekends.

That's the way things work here. Please help us help you and all the other visitors with questions. Thanks. :)

I think Shaughnn answered your question a couple posts back about as well as it's gonna be answered. You gotta install one face or the other first, pick the one that's gonna be easiest to get straight and flat and give you the best edge for setting the second surface with the trim.

For your niche I would expect that would be the wall face first. But I'm not there to see what you've got. It might be easier to set the niche faces first and then trim the wall to them.

My opinion; worth price charged.