Is noble curb strong enough to hold glass door? [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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profozone
04-20-2008, 03:44 PM
Greetings all.

As per the advice I found on this site, I bought a Noble curb to make my life easier. However, when it got here, I couldn't help noticing that it was essentially just foam with a special cement type coating.

That doesn't bother me, but what does is that it doesn't seem any harder than regular foam (as opposed to the hard type you find in car bumpers and bicycle hats).

I have a glass wall system that has a frame that goes down to the curb and supports the weight of a glass door. I'm wondering if this will compress over time and cause me problems or is it strong enough?

Opinions welcome.

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jadnashua
04-20-2008, 04:38 PM
It should be fine once you put your tile onto it. I would not rely on screws into it...pivots into the walls would be preferable, and silicon to anchor and seal the track along the curb.

kerdibird
04-21-2008, 05:11 AM
I'd suggest a piece of marble or granite.

summilux
04-21-2008, 09:50 AM
I am in the process of building a curbed shower (Schluter one) with a glass enclosure on the curb. I went to the glass place and spoke to the installer about what he wanted to see on the curb. They like the Schluter curb and have no problems installing a glass enclosure over one. Here's what they said:

1. Use marble or Corian over the curb. 1/8" slope into the shower. Miter the corners.
1. If you have the door pivot mounted in the curb, put 3/4" wood underneath the Corian/marble.

Jonathan

Rob13
04-21-2008, 10:50 AM
I installed a glass door on my Noble curb. It pivoted off the wall and the bottom was siliconed to the curb. I had no problems.

It is just foam but you are putting 2X4s underneath it.

profozone
05-18-2008, 09:45 AM
Sorry, I should have mentioned that I was using marble over it. I was thinking that the marble and door might compress the Noble curb.

Anyway, I haven't run into many problems I couldn't solve in a while, so I haven't been back to this site, until now.

I have already done the noble curb, so I'm committed now. I'm also committed to using the curb. LOL.

Anyway, you can see my project on my website at www.ozone1000.com.

Go to Miscellaneous, then House, then Shower.

Thanks for the help.

John Bridge
05-18-2008, 10:10 AM
One of the key installation steps is to make sure you get plenty of thin set under the top of the curb to eliminate all voids between the curb material and framing lumber core. You can then use any type of tile or stone on the curb top with no concern about the glass enclosure whatever. :D)

ceramictec
05-18-2008, 10:40 AM
the weight is displaced over a wide flat area so theres no worry.

EricO
05-18-2008, 11:07 AM
....want to redguard the tops of those half-walls. No? I see you redguarded under the CBU but won't moisture still seep through the CBU and cause problems outside your shower again - say, on the drywall/greenboard?

It's prbably against the "rules" to create a "moisture sandwich" but the area will be small enough as to not cause a problem.

Perhaps one of the pros will chime in.

Cool pics! :)

ceramictec
05-18-2008, 11:31 AM
Profozone,

can you go to your UserCP and add your name to your signature line ?
so then the members here know who we are talking to.
thanks

you in Florida ?
your shower set up looks like something around these parts of the woods. :twitch:



Eric,

I think your right.....
I would paint the top cbu with RedGard and go down the wall 3 to 4".
that wouldn't be making a moisture sandwich on the wall but protecting the cbu from wicking in water. you will have another cultured marble sill, tile and caulked underneath the sill, but you never can too cautious.

I would have taken the "coat the top of everything approach" with the RedGard.

profozone
05-18-2008, 08:22 PM
Thanks for the info. I did put thinset under the noble curb as per the instructions that came with it. I hope it will be enough. I couldn't avoid sitting on it while doing the floor today and it seemed pretty sturdy.

So far I have waterproofed things beyond recognition. It is not too late to redguard the top of that wall before I put the cap on and install the tile. I actually asked that question elsewhere on this website.

Ceramictec, I updated my signature.

Yes, I am in Florida. I'm from Orlando and still have family and friends there, but I now live in Melbourne.

Thanks for all the advice. Please feel free to visit my website and make any other comments you see fit.

profozone
05-18-2008, 08:24 PM
Well, now that we are on the subject, what about just redguarding the whole shower before I tile? I think I have enough left over.

ceramictec
05-18-2008, 09:44 PM
hey Russel,

I was over there in Melbourne for the St. Pattys day party in the streets, Ichabod's and a few other bars. :)

you already have a liner so I would only paint the walls for protection. unless you have plastic behind the CBU.

profozone
05-18-2008, 10:01 PM
I do.

profozone
05-19-2008, 07:48 AM
I stepped into the shower this morning and I believe I have put a tad bit too much slope on the floor. It's only a little and I could live with it, but I'm thinking about correcting this with the tile. You know, a little less thinset under the tiles on the outside, a little more toward the drain. Any objections?

John Bridge
05-19-2008, 08:02 AM
I wouldn't try that, Russ. Either live with the slope you have, or float up the drain area and let it harden before you begin tiling. That's assuming you can raise the drain to be flush with the finished tile floor. :)

profozone
05-19-2008, 09:21 AM
I can do that. But I'm curious. What's the problem with the other way? Is the thinset not strong enough? I'm only talking about maybe 1/4" or so differential.

John Bridge
05-19-2008, 11:17 AM
It's very hard to install small tiles by floating them on a layer of thin set that thick. It's really not practical. Better to let the thin set dry up and then install the tiles with more thin set. :)

profozone
05-19-2008, 09:30 PM
Thanks. That works out well for me, since I used up an even number of bags of deck mud. I'd have to open a new one for just a little bit. Thinset is no problem.

profozone
05-31-2008, 01:34 PM
Next question:

The mud floor is very sandy in nature and the thinset doesn't seem to stick to it too well. Is there some sort of sealer or something I should put down first? I have, of course, been vacuuming it with my R2 unit (shop vac).

Thanks.

Tiling the floor tomorrow. Woohoo!

ddmoit
05-31-2008, 01:38 PM
Hi Russell,

You definitely don't want to seal it. Thinset should stick to it just fine, unless your thinset is a little dry.

profozone
06-14-2008, 07:11 AM
Ok, the next dilemma has arisen. I don't think there's much advice you can give me on this except not to mess it up next time, but I might be wrong, so constructive comments are welcome.

Here's the problem in a nutshell:

When I floated the floor I failed to keep a straight, level line where it meets the wall, so now my wall tile have to be cut on the bottom to match the curve of the floor. Because a full tile on the bottom kind of messes up the ideal pattern further up the wall, I just plan to cut the tile on the bottom at about half their normal height and proceed up the wall, but I'm having difficulty determining if this will look really, really bad and if I should try to make them nearly full tiles and only trim what is necessary off the bottom and then just figure out what to do further up the wall with the decorative tiles.

Check it out here:

http://www.ozone1000.com/orange_frame_house_shower1_10.htm

profozone
07-13-2008, 01:20 PM
I have another thread on here regarding my project, but the subject line is so far from my current problem, I want to start another one. Feel free to move it if necessary.

My whole project can be seen on my website: http://www.ozone1000.com/orange_frame_house_shower1_10.htm

So here's the thing. Despite careful measurement and great effort on my part, the expected happened. The glass enclosure I removed doesn't seem to want to fit back in. I'm pretty confident that the 2 x 4's are in the right positions but, I believe the stack up of mud, tile and concrete board were different enough from the original install to make the hole for the door smaller than the original. In fact, it exceeds the adjustment range on the door. Plus to keep it from mounting at an angle to the wall, as viewed from above, the whole enclosure would need to be pushed out away from where it attaches to one wall.

I believe a possible way to fix this problem would be to channel one or more likely both sides of the door opening so that the aluminum could be attached in a recessed manner (effectively widening the hole). Then, if and this is a big if, I could find the original manufacturer of the enclosure, I could get a couple of pieces with the same finish and shim the one side away from the wall.

So the question is, has anyone tried to re-use the original aluminum and glass enclosure before and had it not fit and tried to make these kinds of adjustments? If so, is it worthwhile or am I just opening up a whole can of worms? I'm thinking my other option is just hire someone to install a whole new enclosure and door. That will probably be expensive, I imagine.

I knew this would be an issue but I was hoping by being careful that I might be able to adjust it in, but it really doesn't take being off much to really throw things off.

Thanks for any advice.

cx
07-13-2008, 01:54 PM
I've combined you with your original thread (one of them), Russell. Any moderator can change the title for you at any time, but the titles don't mean much once the project thread gets started, actually. Best to change it to something more generic and then ask whatever questions you have there without regard to specific subject matter. :)

profozone
07-13-2008, 10:44 PM
I think the title does matter. Why would someone answer my question when they think it is about the noble curb?

cx
07-13-2008, 10:50 PM
Folks will answer because your thread has risen to the top of the queue, Russell. Some folks who are participating in your thread will also be subscribed to it and receive notice each time a post is made to it, but won't know if you start another thread.

Unlike a lot of forum sites you may be familiar with, we have dozens of regular participants here, including some twenty moderators, who pay very close attention to all the traffic on the site. Someone might occasionally get overlooked for a while, but not often.

We'll be happy to change the title of your thread to something more generic if you'd like. That actually seems to work best after a project thread has been active for a while. :)

[Edit]

I think if you posted a photo or two of the situation you're describing it might help folks to see what the situation is. Just from the description I'd hafta guess getting someone to make you an enclosure that fits might be the most reasonable option, but seein' what you've got might change that.

profozone
07-26-2008, 09:00 PM
I have an 8" piece of Noble curb if anyone wants it. What you would do with only 8" worth, I don't know. But if you pay to ship it, I'll send it to you. That's all.

cx
07-26-2008, 09:23 PM
It's fine to start a new thread if you're just unloading your excess material, Russel.

Don't think you're likely to get a lot of action on that one, though. :)

profozone
08-04-2008, 12:14 PM
Yeah, I didn't expect to, but it's kind of expensive and I didn't want to just throw it away if someone by some strange coincidence needed a little piece.

cx
08-04-2008, 12:18 PM
Send it back to Noble with a note for Eric (e3) axin' for a refund. :shades:

That won't work either, but it could be a lotta fun. :D