Tile Wainscot and Tub Surround [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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02-27-2008, 05:21 PM
Hello to all!!

I'm in the process of redoing a bathroom. I want to replicate the "mud" job look with cove molding and mud cap.

On the wainscot my approach is to apply wonder board at 41" hgt over existing wall and tile over that. In the tub area I can pop off the existing 4x4 tiles circa 1970 and the thought is to apply wonder board over existing sheet rock in this area to continue the wainscot surface into the tub area with the same mud cap.

Plan is to thinset the wonder board to all existing wall surfaces - screw into all joists @ 6"c/c.

Not being an expert, will this approach prove successful?

The existing tub area sheet rock, though old, is in sound condition. Would a layer of plastic sheeting be advised under wonder board in this area?

Will the mud cap install correctly??? K_C
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02-27-2008, 05:43 PM
KC, welcome to the forum. :)

I love that wainscot look. Just started a remodel in our guest bath doing something similar.

Scottish Tile and Stone
02-27-2008, 05:50 PM
KC, so your just adding thickness to your wall, to make it "look" like a mud job? Dont see a problem with that.

02-27-2008, 05:53 PM
I wouldn't keep up the drywall in the wet area, replace it with cement
board and double up as you planned.

hope the existing tile "pops off" like you plan, it will make it much easier. you hope it doesn't take out big chunks of wall with it.

you would want to install some type of water proofing be it Kerdi, RedGard or HydroBan.

are you planning on using the basic 4x4 or 6x6 wall tile ?

02-27-2008, 06:12 PM
Thanks all,
I'll be using 4x6 subway tiles. Existing walls are ancient cement board. The tub area was redone in the 70's with replacement sheet rock installed in the tub area. The issue in keeping the existing sheet rock in place has to do with how it wraps around an outside corner to the door. If I start ripping and tearing that entire corner will need to be redone. I'm trying to avoid that. K_C

02-27-2008, 06:24 PM
the you'll definitely need Kerdi or RedGard to waterproof the walls.

and need the following trim and cove to get the look you want:



02-27-2008, 06:38 PM
I'll look into the two systems you note. Not sure at this point what they're about. This is a tub surround, two walls within the tub bounds - I've resurrected a two sided tub, tail end is open, sweet looking. Head end is the one that corners to the door. Wainscot covers the other walls.

On the tile shapes I'm looking at the A4200 cap and the A3401 base. This base will be set on existing tile floor. Not a true mud job look, however, the vertical reveal at the base is glazed and I can live with that.

Problem came with the one outside corner. that will need a A106 corner round and the A3601 doesn't take that.

You don't see any problem with the 1/2" backer getting it all to look good? K_C

02-27-2008, 06:57 PM
if your not tiling the floor then you will need to use a cove base with a glazed faced foot, not many out there.

if your going to make the mud job subway tile look by doing cement board,
your going to need to try and use all the mud trim accordingly.


02-27-2008, 06:57 PM
So this doesn't have a shower, just a tub?

02-27-2008, 07:37 PM
Tub has a shower. I'm looking at RedGard. Would this be applied to the wonder board? Seem to be an answer in the tub area.

The tile I'll be using is the Rittenhouse Square series, artic white. I'll be installing a 1/2x6 oak moss liner strip under the mud cap all around. The cove base I was shown has a glazed foot. K_C

Originally I planned on using building paper behind the wonder board in the tub area.

02-28-2008, 01:27 PM
Just returned from my local daltile distributor. Worked out the trim details - will require a bit of on site fabrication [trimming things] but looks like it's going to work AND look first class.

Interesting that not too many folks are going for the traditional look of a mud job. I'm in the capitol district of New York - large market area, and no one is doing this. They now pick a subway tile, alternate black and white [checker board] to get the "Victorian" look.

Not going to comment on the taste of others...

As far as the walls in the tub area, 1/2" wonder board over existing dry wall - waterproof with Hydro Ban.

I would like to thank all - YOU GUYS/GALS ROCK! The feed back was first class and the info in these pages is priceless. I was way off base on the importance of moisture protection in the tub area. Like many I was still thinking that the dry wall makers knew what they were talking about. Forgot they're into selling! We've all seen friends put a lot of time and money into a nice tile job on the moisture resistant dry wall. Guess it works, but now I'm not guessing, I know it will work.

All feedback welcome. I'll try and post photos as this project progresses, and I'll be back with more questions as I go along. K_C

02-28-2008, 03:36 PM
KC, glad we could help a bit. Best of luck on continued progress!! We'll be anxious to hear your updates. :)

02-28-2008, 03:47 PM
definitely post project Picher's :)

03-03-2008, 04:20 PM
Now working on final tile design and layout. Want to get all the ducks in line before placing tile order. Backer going up well over existing wall, reserving the tub area till last. Only bath in the house and really don't want to sacrifice the shower just yet.

Here's the problem today. The pedestal sink is mounted on and angled section of wall in a corner. Face of wall is 27" set slightly proud of 45d. I'll be bringing the mud cap across the top of the wainscot, then wrapping it up, across, then down this face of wall. To mount the tile on the wall I'll be applying backer to it as well. The sink is mounted here with med cabinet above and light fixture above it. Tile will extend 5-6in above light fixture.

Where this angled wall meets the sidewall I'll need a 2" strip of backer to carry the mud cap and 1/2" liner strip flat to the side wall. The liner strip will be mounted at the angled bend transitioning to the angled section of wall. Plan is to score 6" backer @ 2", snap it, secure 4" to the angle wall into framing then thinset the 2" part to the side wall - if you get what I mean. There is no framing out there to screw into, just a plastered wall. This should work, right???

Other issue I see looming is setting the liner strip. I'm aiming on that setting right in the bend. Will need to build that out a bit to get it to match mud cap and field tile. Will thinset carry a 1/2" depth or so or should I consider something different. It's not a big deal, looks good on paper, but just wait until I try to put it all together.

Also - how far, on a wall application, can I reach backer sections beyond wall studs? Backer joints are missing framing... it's just the way it seems to be working out. K_C