Glass Mosaic Master Bath [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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02-27-2008, 02:44 AM
Thanks to the forum I have been able to rip our bath to shreds and then put it all back together, almost.

Took a 10' x 10' small master bath down to studs and joists. Mud base floor walls and ceiling. Not fun. Early 50's home. Original tile work all gone. It was well done too.
Deflecto - check, all good - 3/4" Plytanium T & G sub floor w/1/8" gaps filled with silicone. Glued and screwed per spec. Solid. Substrate 1/4" hardi over thinset screwed but not to joists. Solid and flat. 1/8" gaps. No overlapping seams. Seams taped with cbu tape and thinset.
Instaled Mohawk trapani charcoal 12 x12 color body porcelain in brick pattern. Spectralock Pro Platinum grout. Results :yipee: thanks to all the info here.

Walls, celing and tub surround all clad in 5/8" on celing and 1/2" of DenShield Tilebacker. Ceiling finished with multiple coats of skimcoats of drymix. Level 5. Primed w/zinzer and finished with Sherman Bath paint.

Enter the 3/4" mesh backed sheets of Hakatai glass mosaic tiles. Hence the denshield to avoid the conflict with the modified / unmodified saga with the kerdi thing and glass. Yes I have been studying.

Made a couple of small tests using Hydroment Ultra premium reflex and Latacrete Platinum 254. After 24hrs over DensShield both performed well. Took a great deal of force to pry up a tile, glass tile broke and or tore the substrate to shreds before total destruction. Latacrete seems smoother less grainy, gritty sandy then the Hydroment. So I went with the 254 white.

And now the humbling task of installing the meshbacked sheets. I selected the toilet corner as a starting point figuring that by the time I'm done I might be just getting good at it to some extent.

OK so now I face my niche questions. I have a Knoble niche, read the instructions - bracing support, silicone joints (don't use noblesealant 150 as it's incompatable with niche material) and cbu tape or cover seams with nobleseal ts.

Question - is there any reason to cover the entire insides of the niche with nobleseal ts or is it waterproof as is. And should I just thinset and install tiles directly over the Noble coated foam. What is the standard process with the noble niche ?

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02-27-2008, 03:59 AM
Here are some pichers.
3/4" Hakatai mesh backed glass tiles. Color match Spectralock grout will be used.
Knee wall
Electric boxes, Cuts made with wet glass grinder
Toilet location. Still undecided on Base board or tile to tile transition at floor. Hence the unfinished tile at the bottom. I think I'll go with all tile and no base board.

02-27-2008, 04:11 AM
And some more
Tub wall DenShield with silicone on seams and screw heads in wet area per manufactures specs. Tub skirt to get same blue tile.
Vanity wall
Gryphon Glass Grinder
PLS 180 self leveling laser for grid pattern

02-27-2008, 04:49 AM
From what I can see it lookslike your doing a fine job Patrick........Ya know, if you woulda membraned everything and put in a pitched to center floor drain & a built in 3 HP Power washer you coulda had a Tim Taylor " More Power" MANS Bathroom and just Power washed it once a week. :lol1:

I am unfamiliar with Nobles Niches as I always Build my own so will leave that to those who are. You can always PM e3 (eric) From noble.He is a member here and can answer any questions you may have RE: Noble Products.

Cant wait to see the finished job!!! :tup1:

02-27-2008, 10:52 PM
Thanks Todd,

3 hp, that woulda fit real nice behind the tub skirt and the exhaust run out the wall - access panel for gas, hot water for steam. hmm. Might blow the fixtures apart but all them little tiles are stayin put ! :nod:

Well at least I didn't use mastic over greenboard :cry:

Alot more tiles to go ! So many tiles -so many grout lines. :uhh: