Yes, Another Vapor Barrier Question [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


View Full Version : Yes, Another Vapor Barrier Question

02-25-2008, 09:04 PM
I've read much here and really gotten comfortable what to watch for while my contractor constructs my new bathroom. We're installing a Kohler Cast Iron "Memoirs" tub, 34" x 60" - fairly standard size. It's being installed in an alcove and will be a shower / tub. My contractor says he never puts a vapor barrier behind Hardibacker, but at my request installed it today, after the Plumber set the tub.

Question: He nailed up the poly sheets in layers starting at the bottom - he lapped the tub flange like I asked. However, when I tap my hand in the corners, there isn't enough poly to go all the way into the corner - he nailed it too tight around the corner - I've read about others doing that here too. So my thought is when he goes to banging up the Hardibacker tomorrow, he'll be needing to "stretch", tear, or cut that corner poly to get the Hardibacker in.

Do I need to have him rip down the poly and redo it?

One more question. The Plumber did all the rough ins and passed inspection - then contractor realized that the "recess-it" niche I bought needed to go where the shower water line came up from the valve. So he cut the pipe and rerouted it left, then up, then back right, so the "recess-it" will go there. Now, when I push the copper piping to the mixing valve all the way to the left until the up part on his reroute touches the stud, the nipple for the tub spout is about 1 inch off center drain.

Seems like he's going to have to resweat in a 1 inch longer piece of copper on the shower pipe reroute - so that the pipes can be pushed over far enough so that the tub spigot is centered up.

Does that sound right - ie. that I need to ask him to make sure the tub spigot nipple is centered on the centered draining tub?

Please advise.


Sponsored Links

02-25-2008, 11:39 PM
Welcome, Trey. :)

Yes, the poly should be loose enough in the corners to allow the CBU to be installed without tearing it. No need for it to be tight at all.

If you want the plumbing centered, he should center it.

My opinion; worth price charged.

02-26-2008, 12:13 AM
Thank you for the quick response. I'll ask him to fix these items before Hardibacker goes up manana.


02-26-2008, 07:21 AM
In my opinion all the questions you raised need to be addressed BEFORE the backer goes up. Hammy

02-26-2008, 09:21 PM
Hey Trey, no need to resolder pipe, just scab on a piece of 2x4 on the stud to fasten the pipe to. Rip a 2x4 to the width you need and screw it to the old stud between stud and pipe. easier than fooling with new pipe joints.