"The First Step of The Journey....." [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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03-30-2003, 11:41 AM
By now I had planned to be posting pics of my newly re-tiled tub surround, but work schedules and life in general have gotten in the way of progress. I've got the next week off from work and plan now to finish the job.

As of my last post I am down to the studs, got my tile (4x4). I am using 6 mil poly as a vapor barrier (insulation already in exterior wall). I chose this over felt because I thought it would be easier to install by myself, plus I could see the studs. In that other guy's book he talks about overlapping the felt then sealing it with asphalt. I can't find any mention here of anyone sealing the poly. I did look at Dave M's Canton Bath Project (wow) and it looks like he did something like this. What would he have used?

Roofing Nails vs. Screws-which are going to easier for me to put in?

Hardibacker vs. Durarock-whew, I lifted some of that Durarock at HD and it was like, cement! Is it going to make that big a difference if I use Hardibacker? Please remember, I'm toting, cutting, installing and even standing around by myself. One of the disadvantages of Hardibacker that I've read is getting a smooth cut. If I use a grinder will this make a difference?

What do you all use to shim the 1/4" on the bottom of the CBU? And is it truly 3' x 5'?

As soon as we get this all hashed out, I'm fixin' to start!

Hey, Cami, do you have snow on the ground too? I know it's spring though, cause I've got water in the basement .

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03-30-2003, 12:00 PM
Hi Lauren, :)
I used some black pookie on my studs behind the plastic, but I wouldn't do it again. It was very messy and I don't think it's necessary.
Roofing nails are easier in my opinion. Everyone says to get the "Hot Dipped" ones instead of the "Electro-galvanized". They can be tough to find. I did see them at a sears hardware store.
I used Durock. It seemed the closest to real cement to me. I like cement. :) It cuts very easy with a carbide tipped blade in a circular saw. Wear all the safety stuff and be ready for the dust cloud. Someone suggested using a leaf blower pointed at the saw to send the dust away. Do try to enlist a friend to help you hang the board. It's heavy and awkward.

Good Luck! :)

Edited by davem to remove irrelevant shower pan liner shimming comments. :rolleyes:

03-30-2003, 12:05 PM
My Vote is for the durock.Proven reliable and yes quite heavy.Its only a few sheets that you need. Be tough :)

Nails are much easier and hold exceptionally well.disadvantage is they do nat allow you to remove and adjust so get your positioning right the first time.

You can use a 1/4" spacer or a piece of shimming material for spacing at the tub.A piece of your 4" tile cut in strips can also be used and pulled out afterwords. Be sure to tape all your seams with the proper durock tape. Good Luck!! Wear a dust mask when cutting CBU with a power saw.

John Bridge
03-30-2003, 03:03 PM
I met up with my old buddy, Michael Byrne, Orlando last week. It didn't occur to me to ask him about his waterproofing techniques. I wouldn't have agreed with him anyway. :D

You are not really trying to waterproof the area behind the backerboard. If you did want to do that, you would apply an approved waterproofer to the front surface of the board prior to setting the tile.

Cami A
03-30-2003, 03:04 PM
Hi, Lauren! I was wondering how your project was coming along. We got a little less than an inch of accumulation last night, but it melted away in the sun today. :D

Of course, all the melting snow has found it's way into the basement here at this old building. It's not a bad thing when they say they don't build 'em like they used to...;)