tile under/around toilet? [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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09-24-2001, 07:03 AM
i am remodeling my bathroom and am not sure if i need to tile up to about an inch away from the toilet flange, or tile up to it and possibly uner it. the tile i removed was tucked under the flange. also, in taking out the old floor tile, the floor is now not flat. i need to pour in some self leveling. how do i handle the toilet flange? i remember seeing a show on this and they framed around the flange with 2x4's so that the leveler would not flow up to the flange. is this how to do it, or am i remembering wrong?


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09-24-2001, 03:30 PM
I'll give some input about self leveling cement SLC after the rest of the guys figure out if you need it.

John Bridge
09-24-2001, 03:43 PM
Hey Mitch, welcome to the board.

I think you've probably just got some old thin set on the floor, but I need to know for sure. Also, tell us whether you're dealing with a concrete slab or a wood subfloor.

And, is the new tile about the same thickness as the old tile? In which case I might tell you to run it under the flange again.

Let us know

09-24-2001, 06:20 PM
it's a concrete slab. the new tile is probably clse to the same thickness, not sure which tile i'll be using yet...

Bud Cline
09-24-2001, 06:48 PM
Why and where do you feel self leveller is needed???

Be careful following the advice of them damned TV shows, they will get you into trouble.

09-24-2001, 07:44 PM
i just figured that a leveler would be an easy way to get a level floor. this is only the second time i've laid down tile, therefore i'm not 100% confident in trying to level the floor "manually" with different amounts of thin set...

there is old thinset left on the floor. should i take all htat up? it would take quite awhile to take it all up. it's about 3/4 of a inch thick. using a level would leave the bathroom floor quite a bit higher than the joining room, which has wood floors. ANY advice appreciated. i want to do a good job, and do it right the first time.


09-24-2001, 08:00 PM

If your going to use the slc anyway you could just apply it over the remaining thin-set.As long as it is bonded properly.Using a bonding agent for masonry is recommended(even though the slc adheres well).Just extra assurance for you.

As for the transition,I find that usually I can come up with a solution that is attractive.Let us know how much of a transiton you think you'll end up with including,of course,the tile and levelling compound.If it is too high you may have to resort to chiselling the thin-set out anyway.

09-24-2001, 08:15 PM
You must always use a bonding agent with a slc. It should be applied with a soft bristle broom (no rollers) making sure there are no puddles. You can use almost anything, 2 x 4s,1 x 1s, just about any scrap lumber that is high enough to act as a dam. Be sure to caulk the bottom of the wood to prevent leakage and whatever you do don't forget to place a stop at the entrance to the room.

BTW, how many square feet are you doing?

Bud Cline
09-24-2001, 08:19 PM
I'm not convinced you are dealing with thinset remnants if this remaining material is 3/4" thick. You may be surprised how easy it is to remove this material with the right tools. Then transitions may not be an issue.

Rob Z
09-24-2001, 10:34 PM
Hi Mitch

I'm with Bud on this one. Is that a misprint? Thinset remnants 3/4" thick?


09-25-2001, 06:56 AM
ok, i've gone to take a look at it again, and it's about 1/2 an inch, give ot take. the bathroom is only about 8x4,

John Bridge
09-25-2001, 04:45 PM
Mitch, just my opinion.

If you can get the high spots off the old thinset, you can go right into installing the new tiles. Just take your time and get them level with on another. In a room that small you don't have to get in a hurry.

Just my opinion. Worth less than the price of CX's.