Hey BBCamp, ready to go "dutch" [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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LaurenG
01-27-2003, 05:35 PM
BBCamp replied to my post:

"You can put the backerboard up when the framing is finished. If the wood is not rotted more than, say 1", then you can notch it out and replace the bad wood with a new piece fitted to the notch. It's called a "dutchman." Norm Abrams does this all the time!"

Ok, I'm ready to go "dutch" now. I taken everything down to the studs, I' ve read all 75 pages of previous posts, picked out my replacement tile, and as soon as I clean about a foot of snow off the F150 (we got dumped on this week-end) will get the cementboard. The only stud that shows any sign of rot is the one that the long gone soapdish was over. It looks as if about 9" of the stud has water damage (rot).

Questions:
when you said 1", did you mean in length or depth?
what kind of replacement wood?
what kind of tools will I need?
will I need to wear a plaid flannel shirt like Norm? :D

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flatfloor
01-27-2003, 05:41 PM
You will have to check with Cami about the skirt she's in N.Michigan too. :d

jlbos83
01-27-2003, 05:56 PM
shirt, shirt, shirt
although a plaid flannel skirt might be a kilt, and that would change everything.

Cami A
01-27-2003, 05:58 PM
That's flannel shirt, Jim. No one in their right mind is wearing a skirt and exposing flesh right now! :D:D:D

Lauren, if you're close I can lend you tools.
I could probably give you a hand with the standing around and drinking beer portion of the work, too. ;)

John Bridge
01-27-2003, 06:01 PM
Lauren,

Black water marks on a stud do not represent damage. Try to dig into the wood with a screwdriver. If it's solid, it's fine. Rot and mold operate the same way. Seal off the source and deprive them of water and they can't exist. In other words, don' t sweat it. ;)

On the shirt, I would not want to emulate Norm. :D

davem
01-27-2003, 06:02 PM
I'm jumping in blind here, but I bet Bob meant 1" in depth. Can you just place a brand new stud up against this damaged one and nail or screw it in place? That would probably be easier than repairing or replacing it. :)

LaurenG
01-27-2003, 06:25 PM
John, it's rotted I think, a portion of it has splintered.

Cami A, at this point in the project the "standing around and drinking beer" is the only part I really feel confident about. I live about 35 miles south of you, off 31 in Conway (Crooked Lake) on the way to Petoskey. Were did you end up getting your tile? I did have a chuckle when reading back posts that some people were shocked that you would have to drive 4hrs to "civilization" to find decent materials.

bbcamp
01-27-2003, 06:32 PM
I did mean depth. Were it me, I'd use a hand saw and saw a few kerfs through the rotten wood about 1/2 inch apart and as even in depth as you can thru the rotten area. Use a "good shawp chisel" remove the wood and flatten the bottom of the cut. Measure the cut out area and make a patch from a scrap of Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine (or what ever you have handy) to fit. Tack in place. Use a little yellow glue if you wish.


Clothing optional. :D

Cami A
01-27-2003, 06:51 PM
Lauren, I have to confess that drinking beer is the only tiling skill I excel at. Our house (link below) is not likely to be tiled by me...

If I had a few extra bucks to spare, I'd go to Emmet Brick and Block. I love their selection, both of tiles and tools. I've never ventured into that Discount Flooring place on the corner just before Petoskey. Of course, since I started posting, that Orange Box has opened. I've eyeballed the clearance section a few times... :D:D:D

LaurenG
01-27-2003, 06:55 PM
remember when I said in my first post that you were going to have to have some patience with me? I'm still a little light on the lingo. Kerfs?

Cami A
01-27-2003, 07:17 PM
Here's a pic that might help-

http://www.glulamlog.com/images/constructiontips/finishedcorner/cornercontinuekerfpasslog.gif

Essentially making passes with your table saw, with the depth adjusted so you don't cut all the way through.

One of the guys can get more technical. :D

davem
01-27-2003, 07:20 PM
Heck didn't you say once Cami you have to drive 4 hours just to find a Taco Bell? :D

Cami A
01-27-2003, 07:22 PM
Nah...just under an hour.

Let's not start another craving now... :wtf:

bbcamp
01-28-2003, 06:46 AM
Kerfs are saw cuts that don't go all the way thru. Can be done with handsaw (as you should in your shower)

Dave suggested nailing a stud along side of the rotted stud and leave the old stud alone. That would work.


John said leave it alone altogether, if the rot is not too bad. That would work also.


I say listen to John if the stud is not too weak (compared to the others), or listen to Dave if it is and you have the room to add the stud. Listen to me as a last resort! :D

John Bridge
01-28-2003, 06:32 PM
Okay, I'm stuck between two engineers, and that's not an enviable position to be in, but . . . :D

Nail a scab alongside the old stud and call it good. Don't worry about the dry rot. It won't spread. Oh, screws are better than nails if you have an electric screwdriver/drill.

Scab = sister = another piece of 2x4 ;)

cx
01-28-2003, 07:17 PM
What John said. :)

flatfloor
01-28-2003, 07:45 PM
Why anyone would want to leave a nice sounding place like Conway to go to a place called Petofsky boggles the mind, especially if you have nothing on but a shirt. :p

Cami A
01-30-2003, 01:46 PM
Lauren, how's it going? Did you find anything at EBB?

(Just ignore Flatfloor...)