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NeilM
03-02-2007, 02:25 PM
I was told by a local tile store that I should use a different grout on my showers and counters, one that will resist mold growth. I think it had an additive like silicone or something. I dont remember exactly because initially I had no plans to use it, I thought I could use the same grout throughout the house. After thinking about it I thought I should check here.

Also, I plan on using c cure matching caulk on my counters, showers and floor. It seems that it would be easier to caulk before I grout. Is there a preference.

Thanks Neil

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NeilM
03-03-2007, 08:59 AM
Is anyone familiar with using a different grout on the counters/showers vs the floors?

Scottish Tile and Stone
03-03-2007, 09:06 AM
The only difference in grout I have used over the years is sanded versus non sanded.

Scottish Tile and Stone
03-03-2007, 09:07 AM
Its a preference if you want to grout before or after you caulk. I have always caulked after grouting.

Dave Taylor
03-03-2007, 09:18 AM
What Scott says.
You do have some product choices in grout.... see....
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=35153&highlight=spectralock
but no reason why the same grout used elsewhere in the house can't be used in the shower.... it's done all the time and.... grout should be sealed anyway.
Like Scott says... sanded fer' grout lines larger than 1/8".... un-sanded for grout lines 1/8" and less.

My druthers are like Scott's... grout first than calk. :---)

sandbagger
03-03-2007, 09:12 PM
I think just about all the grouts these days have something called "Moldguard" that is supposed to help with the nasties. The only real difference is the epoxy option, like Dave said. It's great stuff, but pricey.

that said, the best way to prevent mold is proper construction. Mold does not really grow on the surface. It almost always is an indication that there is lots of moisture under the grout that is feeding the moldies. :eek:

NeilM
03-05-2007, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the help guys...

Neil

tilerik
03-05-2007, 10:46 PM
One thing about the caulking. In the shower it must be able to handle the constancy of water. Be sure to check the label as some are not recommended for use in showers. By the way what is c-cure caulk? I'm not familiar with it. :scratch:

NeilM
03-08-2007, 08:22 AM
C Cure is the brand. C Cure grout sells matching caulk to use with their product colors.

Neil

NeilM
03-12-2007, 08:22 AM
I have set my ceramic tile in the entrance to our walk in shower but I have not grouted them yet. I just realized that I have a towel bar that I want to put in the entrance on the tile. Can I drill through the tile to mount the bar or do I have to remove the tiles to be drilled and then reinstall them?

Also my ceramic tile is not supposed to need to be sealed. Is that the feeling of those on this site or should I seal it anyway and what should I use? I have 4 showers, 8 counters and about 4400 sq ft of floor. Does it all need to be sealed?

Thanks Neil

prashster
03-12-2007, 08:28 AM
Epoxy grouts don't require sealing but are pricier than regular, cement grout (sanded or unsanded). For that reason they're a nice choice in the shower. harder to apply than reg grout though.

Lotsa people here like Laticrete's Spectralock in a shower. It's an easy-to-apply epoxy grout. However, it costs 5-10x the price of regular grout. You will make up that cost by not having to purchase sealer in a couple years, though.

Also, color consistency is purported to be better with Spectralock and it's epoxy-based cousins vs cement grout.

NeilM
03-12-2007, 10:27 PM
Thanks for the response but I need to clarify...I am using sanded caulk and I am sealing that. I was wondering if I needed to seal the ceramic tile as well. Also, any thoughts on drilling through my tile or removing it?

Neil

mrjetskey
03-13-2007, 08:19 AM
ceramic tile is kiln fired,I dont think you would get any sealer to penetrate that even if you wanted too,the sealing is for grout lines and for stones,slate,etc. That is the beauty of ceramic tile its stain resistance,as long as you keep the grout well sealed,you can laugh as your children or guests spill koolaid,wine,ketchup,kat-poop etc.Buy a good quality sealer and follow the directions,I have found it much easier to buy one of those small bottles with a brush or small roller made just for sealing grout lines,they only cost a few dollars and are great for ease of use and not wasting lots of sealer.JMHO> marvin

NeilM
03-13-2007, 08:32 AM
Thanks, for the reply. That was helpful. Any thoughts about drilling through them. I have already thinset them to the wall?

Scottish Tile and Stone
03-13-2007, 11:10 AM
You can drill the tile if thats what needs to be done. Get a bit made for tile, and take your time. Let the drill do the work, so you dont break one.

You can always take a pop bottle, cut off the bottom, apply some plumbers putty in the form of a ring around the spot you are going to drill. Smoosh pop bottle at a hard angle onto putty, then put enough water in to just touch the drill bit. It will help in keeping it cool.

NeilM
03-15-2007, 10:29 PM
Thanks Scott,

I am just about done with my showers and plan to start the floors soon. So far everything came out very good thanks to the all the information I got from this site. I am putting Ditra down over a cement slab and using 20 x 20 ceramic tiles. I have several walls with curves in them as well as three floor medallions. The baseboards have already been installed so I can't cover up any mistakes around the arcs. I have two questions (I'm sure there will be more).

1) Is there a saw that will cut smooth curves around the arcs of the walls as well as around the medallions. I have used nippers to cut the curved openings for my sinks. After many blisters, the end result looked okay but the uneven edges are hidden by the sink lips. Since my base boards are already installed, I won't have that option on the floors...then I have the medallions anyway. I really don't want to have choppy cuts in full view if there is another option out there.

2) The medallions we chose are mosaic. Are there any tricks of the trade to installing them and the getting the grout in between the very tiny spaces?

As always, thanks for any help.

Neil

ddmoit
03-16-2007, 04:51 AM
I think a mosaic medallion could be tricky over Ditra. I think Schluter likes tiles over Ditra to be 2"X2" or larger.

NeilM
03-16-2007, 12:50 PM
Okay,any suggestions about putting the mosaic medallions down if I dont use ditra under them...just cut a circular area in ditra around them?

How about cutting the tiles with smooth edges? Is there a special saw for that?

sandbagger
03-16-2007, 07:30 PM
Neil - if you cut out the Ditra, you'll prolly have a height problem, won't you? :scratch:

one solution is to set the mosaic on the Ditra in 2 steps. 1st lay down a skim coat of thinset on the Ditra that just fills the waffles. wait a day and set the mosaic as if you were setting it on a flat slab. :idea:

NeilM
03-17-2007, 09:36 AM
Thanks Art. That sounds like the way to go, I'll try that.

Anyone have any thoughts about the circular cuts?

sandbagger
03-17-2007, 11:19 AM
Neil - there are diamond band saws (http://www.constructioncomplete.com/TileEquipment/TileSawsWetSaws/TileCuttingDiamondBandSaws.html), but don't think you're gonna buy one of them. (or maybe it's a really big job and I'm making a bad assumption?) :deal:

There's a simple answer for the baseboards, and you know what it is - remove them, tile under, and replace. I said "simple" - not "easy." Removing a baseboard usually isn't all that difficult if you're careful, and that's how the pros would do it. If there's an issue with the locations of the top edge of the molding just rip enough off the bottom to accomodate the tile and a gap for caulk.

the mosaic is another matter - no hiding from those cuts. I think the only answer is patience, the right tools, and a steady hand. A little practice wouldn't hurt. And it sounds like you need better nippers. For getting those edges smooth it's a grinder w/diamond blade, and/or Rotozip w/diamond blade. I'd also make a cardboard template/gage for each tile as a guide.

NeilM
03-17-2007, 02:36 PM
Well it is a big job...4100 sq ft of floor tile, not to mention 8 counters 2 showers, 2 tub surrounds etc. etc...I saved alot of money in labor doing it myself so I justified the purchase of a wetsaw and other odds and ends. Even though I never need a "good" excuse to buy a new tool, I don't think I can convince myself (or my wife) on the diamond band saw. Yes, I know the correct thing would be to remove the base boards (a long story with my trim contractor as to why they were installed before the tile), but now I'm holding up my plumber and my appliances will be delivered at the end of the month (need to set tile before they are installed)...and on and on and on.

Anyway, the rotozip sounds like it might be helpful, I'm not familiar with it but I will check it out. I have a grinder so I will get a diamond blade for that too. Thanks for the help.

sandbagger
03-17-2007, 06:18 PM
Neil - the IS a big job! :eek:

Think of the RotoZip as a "super Dremel." it's actually a spiral saw that was initially designed for cutting holes in drywall for lights and electrical boxes. I use it for lots more than that. Bosch recently bought the company from the family that owned it. If you do get one, be sure to get the kit with the angle attachment - much cheaper than separate purchase. The diamond blade is an extra 20 bucks. It cuts dry, but a little water keeps the dust down and extends the life I'm sure. I've had no problem cutting very hard porcelain floor tile.

NeilM
03-18-2007, 07:50 AM
Thanks for all the great advice.

NeilM
03-20-2007, 07:34 AM
I started cutting tile with the Rotozip. That is one of the best tools I ever bought. All my circles come out very smooth and it cuts through my ceramic tile just as easy as my wet saw. Thanks again Art.

Marge
03-20-2007, 08:54 AM
OK Neil, where are pitchers? :D

NeilM
03-21-2007, 08:42 AM
I'm not done yet, I'm very slow...will send some when its finished though.

Marge
03-21-2007, 03:14 PM
In process pitchers are great too---hint hint. :)

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

NeilM
04-02-2007, 12:49 AM
I'm having trouble attaching pitchers...will keep trying to figure it out.

I have another question though. After grouting one of my showers, I noticed that some of the tiles in the corners of the walls and the floor to wall transitions are so close that I am not sure that I can get any caulk in them. Should I take those tiles out and cut them a little smaller or just try to squeeze caulk between them?

NeilM
04-02-2007, 07:51 AM
bump

Mike2
04-02-2007, 06:52 PM
Try caulking those very narrow spaces. I'm sure it will work.

There is a picture posting thread in the Liberry. Have you read through it?

:)