Building up thickness with Hardyboard [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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mikkyle
01-04-2003, 05:26 PM
Hello,

I'm tiling a shower/bath alcove with slate in my house. I had to remove the orig mudbed over rocklath and plaster, due to water damage. I'm to the bare wood studs.

My orig tile stuck out from the rest of the plaster walls about 3/4 to 1" and the lip of the tub is about 3/4" from the bare studs.
What I was wondering, could I laminate 1 layer of 1/2" hardy to 1 layer of 1/4" hardy, to, and behind and all along the perimeter of my 1/2" hardybacker setting bed ? Just to build up the thickness? I was planning on using 3/4" redwood furring strips on the studs inside that didnt border on the edge of setting bed. Should I use wood furring even on the edges? Should I cover completely with 3 whole layers of CCB? Can I get away with building up just on the edges with hardy and the fur strips inside?
Hope I'm making sense.

Thanks
Mike

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John Bridge
01-04-2003, 05:44 PM
Yes, Mike, it makes sense. It wouldn't make sense any other place, but here. . . . :D

You can fur out the studs with anything and then just use one layer of 1/2 in. backer board. Do whatever it takes to fur it out. Just remember to use a moisture barrier directly behind the backer board.

Gotta love that plaster. Good stuff. :D

davem
01-04-2003, 05:48 PM
Mike,
Have you read any of the posts on this site regarding slate in a shower? Many pro's here do not recommend it. Try using the search feature and type in slate maintenance . Good Luck! :)

mikkyle
01-04-2003, 05:54 PM
Thanks John,
yes plaster is great, nothing like it.
And yes, Dave I've read that the slate is porous and can be a problem in a shower. I've heard that it needs to be sealed and maintained well. Does that make it anymore of a better option if treated with sealer?

Mike

mikkyle
01-04-2003, 06:08 PM
John,
I'm using 6mil poly over the studs and behind the hardy
Mike

John Bridge
01-04-2003, 06:19 PM
Seems to me I lost the argument about slate showers sometime last year. :) I still don't recommend it.

Go for it, Mike. :D

davem
01-04-2003, 06:52 PM
Dunno Mike, I've just read about it here. :)

mikkyle
01-28-2003, 03:39 PM
Hello,

I've finally got my backer board up and am going to need to do some plaster repair before laying my tile. Can anyone recommend a one coat plaster repair product I could use to fill in where I removed old plaster about 12" perimeter around my tub/shower surround. I'ts about 1/2" deep with backerboard and metal lath as a foundation for the plaster/patch. I wont be needing to paint for a week or so, so it doesnt need to be the ultra fast cure type. I had bought some Dap Presto Bondex Patch awhile ago, but not sure if it is right for this purpose.

Thanks
Mike

John Bridge
01-28-2003, 07:05 PM
Mike,

I'm not quite sure what you are doing. This won't have tile over it? Your best bet is to locate a masonry supply that caters to plasterers. It's sort of a different art. :)

TryinHard
01-29-2003, 05:14 PM
I'm assuming this is a 12" wide space around the entire perimeter of the tub and it will be painted? If so, you have two options...

1. If the depth of the gap is constant, then you could fill with 1/2" sheetrock and tape the abutting seams with paper tape and joint compound like any wall board seam.

2. If the subsurface is uneven (My guess) then I would recommend using Structolite to fill the large gap. It is the "brown coat" material that plasterers use. It comes in powdered form in 50 lb bags (but it is cheap). Mix the Structo as per instructions, trowel it on to fill the area. Do as good a job as possible getting a flat surface but don't over fill (Surface can be rough, but must be true). When dry (next day) skim coat some joint compound over the area. Let dry, then sand smooth. If you are abutting to the ceiling or adjacent wall board or CBU, it is a good idea to tape these seams before the skim coat. If not, the seams can crack (but not always).

mikkyle
01-30-2003, 05:24 PM
Sorry John,
I wasnt very clear. I removed an area of the orig plaster over rock lath, down to the studs, 12" all the way around and beyond intended field of new tile that I'm going to install. I put 1/2" backer board on studs and metal lath over that and had about 1/2" left to bring up to the orig plaster wall, and yes it is to be painted.
What I ended up using was customs patching plaster. It had an open time of around 90min (which is good, cause I aint no plaster pro and need all the time I can get) I'm going to put joint compound over that to bring it up to orig.

Thanks for all the advise, hopefuly I'll be cutting and installing the tile this weekend.

Mike

John Bridge
01-30-2003, 07:13 PM
Way to go, Mike. Put a picture or two up here. :)

mikkyle
02-28-2003, 03:11 PM
Hello All,
Im finally ready to hang my slate tile after being sidelined by SO to sand and varnish sons bedroom floor. I just have a ques or two. I have M. Byrnes' book and looked on this forum, but couldnt find answer. I know I'm probably overlooking it. I'm doing a shower/tub surround and was just wondering where to start first course of tile? I know I need 1/4" gap at tub deck, do I put a 1/4" piece of wood or plastic on tub deck to act as a spacer, and work my way up from there? Also I'm using 6x6" indian slate that I cut from 12x12" with wet saw.
What do I use for spacers between the tiles? I was thinking about using a 1/8" or 3/16" wide grout line.
Also what notch trowel should I use?
Thanks
Mike

John Bridge
02-28-2003, 08:36 PM
Mike,

Other than having to shim some of the tiles to get the bottom course level, I set them right on the tub and go up from there. Instead of grout, use a fine bead of caulking between the tiles and the tub.

mikkyle
02-28-2003, 10:18 PM
Thanks John,

How about the trowel size for the thin-set? And I read somewhere that regular tile spacers wont work for slate, any ideas on that?

Mike

John Bridge
03-01-2003, 09:13 AM
I would go with a 1/4 by 1/4 trowel and backbutter as necessary. Use wads of cardboard, plastic wedges, anything that will hold a tile where you want it. The tiles are not the same size, and they'll require some creative shimming to get the walls up. Works around all the walls at the same time. This gives the bottom tiles a chance to set before you load too much weight above them. :)

mikkyle
04-13-2003, 02:30 PM
Hello Guys,
Sorry, think I posted in wrong place last time and need to be in this thread.
I've finally got all my slate on the walls and it's time to grout. I have a question for the Kemguru or Karen or whoever has an opinion on the type of sealer to use on it. My question is, "what is the best sealer to use on this slate (6"x6" uneven surface) in my tub/shower surround?" I had put 2 coats of "aquamix seal and finish low sheen" on one side of tiles, prior to installing them on wall. Alot of the shine from that came off when I scrubbed off the mortar residue that squeezed out, and that I managed to slop around. Got most of the mortar out of the grout lines before it setup tho, and looks good. Since I first put on the seal and finish, I've heard that "aquamix sealers choice" ( which is a penetrating seal I think ), is a better product. I quess I'm not sure which one to use in this situation, I like the natural way the slate looks unsealed, as I think it would be with the "Sealers Choice", but am not opposed to the high gloss look on slate either. I just want what the best sealer for a tub surround made of Slate. If Sealers choice is better, do I need to strip the other seal on now?, Would a "Stone enhancer" protect and look best, and would I have to strip existing sealer? If so, which exact product, I've studied the threads for "Slate and Seal" and still alittle confused as to which is which in which product line.

Any advise from the experts would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for all your help so far it's helped me very much
mike

John Bridge
04-13-2003, 06:33 PM
I'll bump you back to the top of the list, Mike. Someone will be along. :)