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07-22-2006, 11:27 PM
First let me say a huge thank you for this forum. I've been a lurker for a few years and put in a slate entry with much guidance from here. So THANK YOU ALL.

Let me get the prelims out of the way. First name is Jason. Last name is Best (hence the post title). I can't spell, so you may need to ask for clearification on some of my words. I'm a beer AND wine guy so you may see some pic of the bath with Two-Buck-Chuck rather than Bud.

I just gutted my small full bath in my 1955 rambler to the studs. I'm planning to put a "slate" looking porcilin tile on the floor and travertein around the tub. My subfloor is 1 & 1/2 inches thick. What is the minimum plywood and CBU thickness I can put down on top of this?

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07-23-2006, 02:49 AM
jason, Nice to have you back. :clap2:

First let's make sure the floor/joist structure works. Is it possible to tell what the joist depth, spacing and unsupported span of the joists are. Is the 1 1/2" subfloor dimensional lumber on a diagonal.(1955 that would make sense).

I'm glad to see that someone else can't spell..I went to college for English&Lit. and I think I spell worse now than before I went . :crazy:

07-23-2006, 09:10 AM
Welcome, Jason. :)

Looks like you're gonna be with us a while. Go to the UserCP button near the top of the page, find Edit Signature, and pewt your first name in there so's we'll be able to remember it.I'm glad to see that someone else can't spell..I went to college for English&Lit. and I think I spell worse now than before I wentI been tryin' to teach these college boys some proper Inglish and spellin' for years hereabouts, but as you'll see, it ain't takin' well with most of'em. :rolleyes:

Beinashow you're in WA, I'm gonna guess you have the 4x beams on piers, at various intervals, spaced on 48-inch centers, and perpendicular to those beams are center-matched 2x6 boards. If so, tell us the size of the 4x beams and the spacing between the piers.

My opinion; worth price charged.

07-23-2006, 11:53 AM
Cx I bet your right there's a bunch of homes built in the nw in that time period with Car decking on 4' centers. Seeing guys go back to them with the plywood/osb prices going up.

07-23-2006, 12:05 PM
Here is a pic of the subfloor. CX, you are right on with the dimentions. the 2x6s are 48" on center and inbetween is either a 2x6 or 2x4. Also, the "Car Deck"? is 2x6s running perpendicular not diaginal. I hope the pic makes sense.


07-23-2006, 12:12 PM
Kelly --

Can you add the deffynishion of "center-matched" to your Inglish klass?

07-23-2006, 09:58 PM
Can you add the deffynishion of "center-matched" to your Inglish klass?Center-match is all-same Tongue & Groove. Sorta. Mostly. :)

OK, Jason, we got us two problems here. At least.

First. That ain't no picher, that's a drawing. :shades:

Second. I can't figger out what it means. :D


Them are all really 2x4s in there? And just the way you've got'em drawn? Like some places there are some alla way under the floor and some places not? And one place a 2x6 instead of a 2x4?

I'm thinking you gotta have 4x6s or 4x8s being supported by the piers in every case, rather than what your drawing suggests.

And it's possible that someone has addes some interium supports under there, but I wouldn't expect them to be 2x4s. And in your drawing, if you've got a 2x4 between the beams, supporting 2x4s parallel to the beams, how are the perpendicular 2x4s attached to the 4x6 beam? Seems it'd be hanging at least an inch and a half below the bottom of the beam, no?

Git out your drawer and try again. Or go under there and git a real picher. :D

My opinion; worth price charged.

And we'd still need to know the span between the support piers.

07-23-2006, 10:48 PM
Kelly --

Before your post, I had never-ever heard of center-matched lumber. Any use of the word "matched" with wood I encountered previously had to do with arrangement of grain figuring for aesthetic reasons (like bookmatched). And I was pretty sure you weren't concerned about grain matching in a subfloor.

I did a search and found that "matched" lumber is just tongue and groove lumber. Center matching adds the requirement that the tongues and grooves be centered in the thickness of the boards.

And Jason --

Kelly's not the only one confused by your drawing.

07-23-2006, 11:05 PM
Yeah, lotta T&G material, 'specially flooring, is not center-matched. The flooring, at least inna old days, always had more material on top for finishing and re-finishing. I've seen some pre-finished stuff that was, in fact, center-matched. And some siding patterns are center-matched, and some are not.

But stuff like that car-decking I would expect might well be center-matched.

Or not. :D

07-24-2006, 12:24 PM
Sorry about the confusing drawing. :shrug:

I will clean it up and get some real pics as well. It's a bit of a mess under there. It appears that at some point the toilet was leaking and rotted out the subfloor, so someone cut out and replaced the subfloor just around the toilet.

Thanks for your patience,

07-24-2006, 01:55 PM
Jason --

Is the gray circle above the toilet waste pipe? I thought it was a pier, and wondered why you only showed one.