SpectraLock DIY Sryinge [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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07-11-2006, 06:15 PM
I been reading about the costs of the spectrlock and as some consider it gold as such. I read that some suggest using a margin trowel to get it in the joints.
I thought about a sryinge type of application similar to squeezing caulk from a tube with a caulking gun. I looked around my house and found a DAP plastic tube that once contained acrylic latex caulk plus silicone. I noticed that the stop end plug could be removed easily as it has no stop to prevent it. I pulled it out and washed out the tube with water and it was clean as new. It holds 10 fluid ounces and could be pumped into the joints. I would just pour the mixture into the tube and use and refill or glue on a ring to attach a wire to simulate the draw back of the plunger. remove the wire, mount in the gun and go to town.
What ya think?
Could minimize waste and reduce cleanup times!

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07-11-2006, 06:35 PM
Sounds great. Take pictures and let us know how it goes.
Good Luck

07-11-2006, 06:44 PM
The spectralock can run or sag and will fill voids under a tile. The float will force it in and make it more compact. You can try the syringe but I think it will take alot longer. The cleanup really isn't that bad if you don't smear the grout over the whole tile.

07-11-2006, 06:54 PM
I was just considering using it to dispense the spectra. then hit it with the float.
Here are some values to consider.
The 10 fl oz tube states coverage is 55 linear feet at a 3/16 dia bead.
The mini unit data sheet states yield of .2 gal or 25.6 fl oz.
2.56 tubes produce 140 linear feet.
I am going to calc my total linear footage of joints and compare that to what I will buy and will use.
The spectralock calculator for 12x12x.25 with a 3/16 joint show that a mini should yield 41 square feet except that the depth of the joint can change the out come.

07-11-2006, 08:12 PM
A few things to consider:

SpectraLock don't pour worth a hoot. You'll have to stuff it into the tube.

You'll lose more product in the transfer, tube and the nozzle than you will if you work out of a container. You'll also lose time.

The compression of the tube may cause it to cure up on you too quickly. This is my speculation based on reading about what happens in the wonderful world of epoxies. Note how many epoxy grouts instruct you to remove the batch from the mixing container and spread around the work area in loose piles.

Otherwise, it seems like a great idea for grouting vertical planes with good sized joints.


07-11-2006, 08:46 PM
Thanks for the things to consider, I guess it would be like trying to pour peanut butter. I was also going to try to load it by pushing the tube down into the pail, the air would escape out the top at the nozzel. I cap the top and the unit then it is air tight. stick it in the fridge and use it as needed that day and or freeze it for later. It is warm in the O.C. and I would hope that it might extend the pot life for us noobs. I was thinking that injecting it into the joint might reduce air that gets trapped during the filling of the joint. Start at the middle working toward the corners. I think the loss of transfer might be minimal if you have a bunch of the sryinges filled and ready to go. This stuff need to slake,right? It also might be useful to porous tiles or ect.
might be overkill just food for thought. :crazy:

07-11-2006, 09:06 PM
No slake time for epoxy. The clock starts ticking the instant the hardener hits the resin. You slow the reaction by cooling. I don't have any idea how long you can stave off a cure at non-freezing temps but when frozen, the stuff stays fresh and new for at least two weeks. It remains usable for at least six weeks that I know of. I always work out of a container I keep in the freezer. I mixed a batch this morning and worked out of it several times throughout the day. I still have some in the bucket I may get around to using tomorrow.

Air in your joints is not an issue. It's dispelled by the physical force of floating. As you know, you'll still have to pack the joints no matter what method you use to install the grout.


07-13-2006, 09:20 PM
If you are concerned about getting the grout into the joint as directly as possible, try a drywall taping knife. Gets a thin line of grout directly on the place it's needed, and you just scoop, spread, scoop, spread. Packing it in with the float would still be needed.

- Chad

07-28-2006, 09:04 PM
used the syringe the other day on the walls, mixed it to a thickness of sanded caulk. pumped it into the joints no problem. 1/16 and strike it off with a float.
did one wall and stuck it in the freezer. defrosted and did the other wall. good control little waste. I made a small batch of the mini, used a medical syringe and measured 2 fluid oz's of a and b and the just added the c until it was the thickness i liked. it just poured into the tube no waste. job done beers opened.